Timeline for Need help identifying replacement Magic Smoke Container
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
9 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan 16, 2017 at 12:40 | vote | accept | KlaymenDK | ||
| Oct 18, 2016 at 21:38 | comment | added | Nazar | Well, than at least you can conclude that it is not shorted. Try replacing the fuse. As for the "zero connection", I would expect it to have at least some high resistance. Maybe in the MOhm range? what range of the multimeter did you use? Could the wire that connects the charger with the LED be damaged and shorted? | |
| Oct 18, 2016 at 21:17 | comment | added | KlaymenDK | Sorry, I mis-read. The LED lamp is working fine when used with its internal battery (that I can no longer charge). Across its input pins, I get zero connection whatsoever. | |
| Oct 18, 2016 at 21:14 | comment | added | Nazar | You should measure the input pads of the LED block (or whatever it is), not the exit pads of the charger. | |
| Oct 18, 2016 at 21:10 | comment | added | KlaymenDK | I've measured across the two "exit" pads, and get a brief connection of about 80-200Ω, then no connection. | |
| Oct 18, 2016 at 16:30 | comment | added | Nazar | Find a new 0.3A 230V fuse. It does not have to be in a shape of the resistor. As long as you can properly install it on the board, you can use any shape. | |
| Oct 18, 2016 at 16:18 | comment | added | KlaymenDK | It's marked as "110-230V, 0.3A" with output rating of "5V 1500mA". | |
| Oct 18, 2016 at 15:31 | history | edited | Nazar | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 298 characters in body
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| Oct 18, 2016 at 15:16 | history | answered | Nazar | CC BY-SA 3.0 |