Timeline for DIY board: double-sided SMD vs. joining two boards flat together?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
12 events
when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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Jul 26 at 7:17 | comment | added | winny | You first glue them down, pass though the oven or hot air gun, then solder. | |
Jul 25 at 23:00 | comment | added | martona | @winny I saw the ones on Digikey. Only one tube of Loctite is in stock; and the issue with that brand is that all their chip glues fully cure within less than a minute at 150°C. Wouldn't I want the components to move freely when the solder gets up to temperature so they can settle properly in place via surface tension? The glue might be great for an automated line, but I'm not sure it will be useful with my slow heater. | |
Jul 25 at 20:29 | comment | added | winny | ”Suitable glue is very hard to find.” Look no further: tme.eu/en/details/pr2040d_10/soldering-chemicals-others/…, digikey.com/en/products/filter/glue-adhesives-applicators/… | |
Jul 25 at 19:21 | comment | added | Hearth | @martona I don't know what's readily available in your area, and I'm not familiar with very many such adhesives; I don't have cause to use them very frequently myself. | |
Jul 25 at 19:09 | comment | added | martona | @Hearth Any specific adhesive you'd recommend? The one I found that doesn't take weeks to get is Loctite 3609 but it hardens very fast for my setup. I'm concerned the components won't have the ability to settle in place properly. oemelectronics.se/images/PDF/CHIPBONDER_-_Loctite_3609-EN.pdf | |
Jul 25 at 18:35 | comment | added | Hearth | They make adhesives specifically for holding components to the board while reflowing the opposite side. You don't need it for light components like small passives, but for anything you're worried about falling off, just put a dab of high-temp adhesive underneath the body before you reflow it. | |
Jul 25 at 17:05 | comment | added | Chintalagiri Shashank | @martona Yes. You'd pick the side with less hard-to-solder components to do by hand. None of the components should have fully hidden pins, like BGAs or Connectors whose pins are entirely under them. With some practice and a temperature controlled soldering iron with a good tip, most SMD components can be hand soldered. It does take patience and time, though. Also, when I ask about volume, I mean the number of boards. If its just a few, you can consider either hand soldering or attaching two PCBs, Personally, I'd not suggest trying to attach two PCBs. | |
Jul 25 at 17:05 | comment | added | Spehro 'speff' Pefhany | I only see two heights on each side (maybe one on the top). Maybe you could reflow the top connectors, flip the board so that the parts sit on a surface (shim one up a bit if necessary, with Kapton tape on the surface, for example) and reflow the other side. If there are small components not shown (like capacitors) surface tension will hold them. | |
Jul 25 at 17:00 | comment | added | martona | @ChintalagiriShashank The board is 81mm in length. Do you mean hand-soldering the SMD components? I suppose the upward-facing side could be soldered like that, at least in theory. There are no contact pads underneath those connectors (unlike on the other side), but the pads that do exist are positively tiny and I don't have much experience. | |
Jul 25 at 16:51 | comment | added | Chintalagiri Shashank | What volume do you need this in? Is hand soldering one side an option? | |
S Jul 25 at 16:31 | review | First questions | |||
Jul 25 at 16:39 | |||||
S Jul 25 at 16:31 | history | asked | martona | CC BY-SA 4.0 |