Timeline for What is LED starter?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
7 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aug 27 at 16:38 | comment | added | supercat | @Ferrybig: Still, that doe seem like a scenario that could lead to a shock even when using separate bridge rectifier inputs for every pin if all of the rectifiers fed a common smoothing capacitor that would naturally start out dicharged. | |
| Aug 27 at 16:34 | comment | added | supercat | @Ferrybig: Hmm... I'm not sure I'd say "way more dangerous", since on many fixtures it would be possible for one of the pins at one end of the tube to touch fixtures's contact while the other end could still make contact with the user's finger, and I think the cold resistance of a fluorescent-tube filament would allow plenty of current to cause a shock even when using old fluorescent tubes if someone was trying to use their fingers to feel the orientation of the tube pins during insertion; I would think that scenario would if anything be more common than touching pins on the far end. | |
| Aug 27 at 15:45 | comment | added | Ferrybig | @supercat That would make tube lightning way more dangerous, as during insertion it is possible that one side is inserted into the socket while you are holding the other side and could be touching the metals pins. Normal tube lightning has a very high resistance at this point, so no electricity flows | |
| Aug 27 at 14:44 | comment | added | supercat | @TooTea: It would increase the cost somewhat, though I was thinking the connector for one end could have spring clips that would allow it to be pushed through the tube and then grab the far end. One would need connections with a tiny bit of "give" to accommodate tolerances in tube length, but the need for the external thing to go in the "starter" socket, which may or may not need a fuse, would be eliminated. | |
| Aug 27 at 7:40 | comment | added | TooTea | @supercat It would make assembling these LED tubes much more complicated (and hence probably more expensive). Right now, one end cap contains the driver and an ordinary LED strip protruding out of it, and one just sticks that into a plastic pipe and closes it with a completely dumb plastic cap on the other end. Having to reliably connect that other end cap to the strip would either require soldering on wires and then somehow making them fold up nicely in the end cap, or using something potentially unreliable like spring contacts. | |
| Aug 26 at 21:57 | comment | added | supercat | Would there be any difficulty, beyond the cost of including and connecting an extra bridge rectifier, with having a bridge rectifier at both ends of the tube, driving common DC rails? That would seem to yield an arrangement that would work with any two pins connected to the AC line, and the other pins shorted, left open, or connected through an "old-style" starter, with no need for a separate starter. | |
| Aug 26 at 15:00 | history | answered | winny | CC BY-SA 4.0 |