Skip to main content
added 279 characters in body
Source Link
hacktastical
  • 58.3k
  • 2
  • 54
  • 166

For your prototype you can use a machined-contact DIP socket and 'fly-wire' it to your board to bring the components out.

This type of socket will accept 1/8W resistors and caps with 0.300" lead spacing. Through hole components will plug right in.

Come to think of it, it might make more sense to put the entire circuit (op-amp and passives) on a breadboard and hot-wire that to your target board. Then problems with parasitics and noise pickup will be reduced since the op-amp and its components will be near each other.

For your prototype you can use a machined-contact DIP socket and 'fly-wire' it to your board to bring the components out.

This type of socket will accept 1/8W resistors and caps with 0.300" lead spacing. Through hole components will plug right in.

For your prototype you can use a machined-contact DIP socket and 'fly-wire' it to your board to bring the components out.

This type of socket will accept 1/8W resistors and caps with 0.300" lead spacing. Through hole components will plug right in.

Come to think of it, it might make more sense to put the entire circuit (op-amp and passives) on a breadboard and hot-wire that to your target board. Then problems with parasitics and noise pickup will be reduced since the op-amp and its components will be near each other.

Source Link
hacktastical
  • 58.3k
  • 2
  • 54
  • 166

For your prototype you can use a machined-contact DIP socket and 'fly-wire' it to your board to bring the components out.

This type of socket will accept 1/8W resistors and caps with 0.300" lead spacing. Through hole components will plug right in.