I have bought cheap soldering iron before but when I turn it on waited to heat up, it turned black and wont take a tin. Am I doing it wrong? I wasted 2 soldering iron like this. It turned all black and not tinning. Please can you suggest what to do after plugging it for the first time . I don't know how to tin a soldering iron thats why I wasted two soldering iron.
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8\$\begingroup\$ Yes, the thing you did wrong was buying a cheap soldering iron \$\endgroup\$– PlasmaHHJul 2, 2015 at 14:45
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\$\begingroup\$ While I agree with @PlasmaHH, I do concede that sometimes one has to make do with what one can get hold of. (This depends on local economics, and financial situation.) It is possible to solder with corroded tip, but it have hot spots on the tip, and other areas where it will not melt solder at all. You will have to learn how to deal with that particular soldering iron, and it requires somewhat more time, learned skill and effort to produce an unsatisfactory result. \$\endgroup\$– PhizesJul 3, 2015 at 9:56
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4 Answers
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Assuming you mean really, really cheap cheap like the one below, then there is a way out of the mess.
The points on soldering irons like that are simply pieces of copper. You can file the black stuff off and make the surface smooth again. Tin the clean, shiny copper surface with solder.
Clean the tip often using a damp sponge. This means while it is hot and you are using it. Unplug it if you won't be using it for a while. That kind of soldering iron is completely unregulated and will get very hot. Th black gunk will accumulate faster when you just let it sit and heat up.
My father used to use a bit of electronic solder that had a high silver content to tin the soldering iron, then used normal solder for soldering. The idea was that the silver solder would prolong the life of the tip.
Don't know if did any good. When I used the old cheapy soldering irons, I would just tin them with regular solder and file smooth and re-tin as needed.
The cheap things are also handy if you live in the boondocks and can't just buy a replacement tip at need. They are easy enough to make out of heavy copper wire with a file and a threading die. For the one in the picture, you wouldn't even need the die - it isn't threaded.
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\$\begingroup\$ In my experience, even the very cheapest tips have iron plating, and are not just copper. Filing it will work to rejuvenate it temporarily, but will also result in erosion of the tip after not too long. \$\endgroup\$ Jul 3, 2015 at 9:33
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\$\begingroup\$ They are plated with something, but it never seemed to really be of any use. I've always found that the tips on the cheap irons wear out and start developing holes almost immediately. So, you aren't losing much because the plating is so poor/thin. \$\endgroup\$– JREJul 3, 2015 at 9:37
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\$\begingroup\$ I have seen (partial) success by 'tinning' soldering iron tips with silver solder, though it required silver soldering equipment, and one has to coat the entire tip, and it still does not last as long as a decent tip. \$\endgroup\$– PhizesJul 3, 2015 at 9:49
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\$\begingroup\$ Problem is, for the irons we're talking about there are no decent tips. I've used good irons (Weller temperature controlled, over 10 years with one hot at my elbow) and honestly don't remember changing tips. I know I did because they don't last forever, but it was seldom enough that the memories are just gone. Opposed to that, I remember quite well having to fiddle and cuss with the tips on the cheapies I used at home. \$\endgroup\$– JREJul 3, 2015 at 9:53
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\$\begingroup\$ More useless trivia: When I used to make my own tips, I'd usually hammer the point to shape and then file it smooth. Hammering hardens the copper and the tip lasts longer. \$\endgroup\$– JREJul 3, 2015 at 9:55
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When you buy a new iron there are several things to remember. The first is that cheap is rarely good enough. Then again, I bought a $7 pencil type iron from RadioShack once and it's still going strong. It's all about care.
The trick is to apply the solder AS it's heating up. Do not wait for it to get hot before touching the solder to the tip. That would give the tip time to burn (which, from the sounds of it, is exactly what happened). Hold the solder to the tip while it's heating up to make sure you tin the tip before it has a chance to turn black.
Filing off the black really isn't the best thing to do--It leaves microscopic holes and fissures in the tip which A) Reduces the effective surface area, and B) promotes burning inside the fissures where the tin doesn't go. However, since you say you have a cheap iron, it may not make a huge difference. I really recommend springing for a Haako or a Weller as soon as you can afford it. Even used ones are generally very good. I have a Weller that's about 25 years old and I don't have a problem with it at all.
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I had a similar problem with an inexpensive model/tip. I picked up some 'tip tinner / cleaner' from radio shack for a few dollars and have been tinning along just fine ever since.
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\$\begingroup\$ Here is a nice video: youtube.com/watch?v=J3OlDsKvzss. It really works. I think this is the best answer as this product is specially made for the scenario described by the asker. \$\endgroup\$ Jul 3, 2015 at 2:12
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A sponge should work in general, but you can also dip the hot but not too hot tip into some flux.
That should improve the tip, but be ready to tin it immediately.
