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My company's business is stretching and armouring cars. In the former process we must also lengthen all the wires. We've just come across aluminium cables, which pose a problem — until now we used to cut and solder the cables together with the extension.

The sections we have to deal with are (in mm²):

  • 0.5
  • 0.75
  • 1
  • 1.5
  • 2.5

I'd like to know what [industrial] options are available to stretch aluminium cables. There is one possibility that is out of question: replacing entire cables with longer ones. We don't have all the connectors since not every single of them is available, some are proprietary and brand-specific. So we're left with actually "stretch" the cables.

So what are the available options?

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    \$\begingroup\$ Stretching the cables will reduce the cross-section leaving them undersized. Try cutting them and fixing crimp terminals to the ends. \$\endgroup\$
    – pjc50
    Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 15:43
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    \$\begingroup\$ I would think by saying "stretching" he means "lengthening". \$\endgroup\$
    – Tyler
    Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 15:57
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    \$\begingroup\$ You can look into Burndy aluminum compression fittings. Seems like they MIGHT work. E.g., burndy.com/docs/default-source/cutsheets/… \$\endgroup\$
    – user57037
    Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 16:46
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    \$\begingroup\$ Are they definitely aluminium and not simply tinned copper? \$\endgroup\$ Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 18:39
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    \$\begingroup\$ Well, if Toyota and Mercedes are doing it, they have probably done enough research to determine how to overcome the inherent problems with Aluminum. Most interesting! \$\endgroup\$
    – user57037
    Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 20:38

3 Answers 3

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You can solder aluminium, or at least certain grades. I can solder to cooking grade aluminium foil for instance.

The trick is to buy a specialist multicore solder, with a particularly nasty aggressive flux in it. I find it easiest to 'tin' all the surfaces, then use conventional solder to complete the joint. It needs some practice to get the solder to take, especially getting the temperature right. I don't know whether it is still available, I bought mine 3 decades ago, and still have some left!

One alternative is screw clamps, another is crimp. I'm not sure either would be too robust against possible corrosion of the mating surfaces, unless scrupulously encapsulated after joining. Both would be larger profile than soldering.

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    \$\begingroup\$ And under no circumstances should you attempt to connect aluminum to copper using either method unless you are using connectors specifically designed for such. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Sep 5, 2016 at 16:34
  • \$\begingroup\$ Even those "approved" for aluminum can be less than reliable. Anything you use should be researched first. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Sep 6, 2016 at 2:28
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This is another solution:enter image description here Tulsonic

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    \$\begingroup\$ Does your distinctly short and non-descriptive answer refer to the bonding method of this company? \$\endgroup\$ Commented Sep 6, 2016 at 2:57
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The problem with aluminum wire is that the conductor "cold-flows" when crimped with standard crimp splices.

The most reliable splice that I use is a standard electrical Marrette splice cap. This has a conical spring inside that tightly grips the conductors. These are reliable for decades.

Although I regularly solder aluminum using specialty solder and Flux, it just doesn't seem to be as reliable as a Marrette splice cap.

The downside of Marrette splice caps is that they are physically large.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Twist-on splice connectors are probably not rated for use in high-vibration environments. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Sep 6, 2016 at 3:22
  • \$\begingroup\$ Marette splice caps definitely don't apply here. They've been used in the past and proven totally unreliable. Most of all they don't circumvent the problem of humidity on the exposed wires. \$\endgroup\$
    – user59864
    Commented Sep 6, 2016 at 13:56

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