Refer to this unity gain frequency discussion.
If the device cannot provide current gain at a certain frequency, it can be replaced with passive components; hence it is not useful as an amplifier. fT is also called 'transition frequency' or 'current gain cutoff frequency' in literature.
OTOH fmax is the unity power gain frequency also called 'maximum oscillation frequency' or 'power gain cutoff frequency'
how is this measured in lab
These parameters are measured at the fab and are part of process characterization.
Schroder's book "Semiconductor Material and Device Characterization" will be of help if you want to explore the topic further.
fT / fmax both vary with current.
1) If you want increase the fT by increasing the bias current, the device size increases, parasitics increase and reduce the frequency that the device can work at.
2) If you have less bias current, speed suffers as device must overcome its own parasitics before it can drive anything useful.
Does it simply mean that it can operate at higher frequency?
fT is determined by process. In RF circuits, fT/30 performance would be be achievable for commercial circuits over process corners and for reasonably simple circuits only. These numbers show the efficacy of the process. Actual circuits have more going on. For instance, interconnects need to be charged; meaning you have to have larger devices on layout and that means more parasitics.