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Years ago, while taking a graphic arts course in college, I shot negatives of some printed circuit art (hand-drawn, optimized for broad traces and minimal etchant depletion, and ganged with a class project to avoid wasting film).

At the time, Radio Shack still sold negative-acting photoresist, in a spray can, and I made maybe as many as half a dozen of them (using a simple contact frame under direct sunlight for exposure).

I expect to actually need a bunch of the boards I designed (essentially dirt-cheap signal logic for model trains, on a 2-inch square card, based on 2N2222 transistors), before too much longer.

Looking around online, I find that 2N2222s are not only still readily available, but dirt-cheap. Single-sided PCB stock, and ferric chloride solution, also appear to be readily available.

But I also found that negative-acting photoresist spray seems to have fallen into a black hole.

Any suggestions?

All I see is some sort of adhesive film, on Amazon, with mixed reviews. I admit that the idea of washing soda as a developer (instead of the strong organic solvent that the Radio Shack spray used) is attractive, but some of the negative comments complain about very limited documentation, and the need to heat-set the film before exposure and etching. Anybody have any experience with that stuff?

Or would I be able to get decent results if I scanned my negatives, and then laser printed them onto the toner transfer sheets I've also seen on Amazon?

For that matter, given that I spend my Saturdays docenting at a printing museum, I could probably cut a stencil from my negatives, and silk-screen the trace pattern onto boards, for less than it would cost to convert my art to Gerber format (probably ruining the etchant-optimizations in the process).

But does anybody here have any experience with either the blue plastic photoresist film I've seen on Amazon, or with toner transfer sheets?

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    \$\begingroup\$ What happened was that board fabs got cheap enough to make home fab no longer worth it for most applications. That and RadioShack can no longer gouge your eyes out with 0.1uF ceramic caps for $0.75 each when you can go online and buy 100 for the same price so they stopped catering to electrical hobbyists and now they just sell...RC cars? \$\endgroup\$
    – vir
    Commented Aug 30 at 0:46
  • \$\begingroup\$ How cheap? For a bunch of single-sided cards, 2 inches square, same hand-drawn art as in my original post? \$\endgroup\$ Commented Aug 30 at 0:54
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    \$\begingroup\$ Those places only accept gerbers but you could get them for as low as $1.50 per square inch, so $6 each. Depending on your definition of "a bunch" you could probably go even lower. \$\endgroup\$
    – vir
    Commented Aug 30 at 0:57
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    \$\begingroup\$ @JamesH.H.Lampert vector art, like SVG or EPS, but specific to PCB manufacture. \$\endgroup\$
    – hobbs
    Commented Aug 30 at 1:04
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    \$\begingroup\$ Gerber files are produced by PCB layout programs such as KiCAD. The Gerber files are used to produce the artwork necessary to etch your PC boards. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Aug 30 at 2:32

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This is not an answer about spray resist but it’s too long for a comment.

You are a graphic artist with a sense of adventure so it may be something worth trying. Nothing to lose, etc.

Moreover you will be avoiding c21 culture of “just press the magic button and don’t try to understand”.

  1. With plenty of Cu on the one hand and FeCl_3 on the other, you can afford to experiment.
  2. Try kinds of black enamel paint and see if you can find one which protects the copper from the etchant.
  3. (Why black? So you can see it.)
  4. Get a paintbrush and paint your circuit.
  5. Etch.
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  • \$\begingroup\$ Sharpie ink does a good job of resisting ferric chloride in my experience. Just get a big fat-tip pen if you need to cover large areas. "Sharpie Magnum" would be worth a try. Comes off with IPA and a soft sponge. \$\endgroup\$
    – anon33
    Commented Aug 30 at 10:27
  • \$\begingroup\$ What is "c21 culture"? \$\endgroup\$
    – MrGerber
    Commented Aug 30 at 11:59
  • \$\begingroup\$ "IPA": I'm assuming you mean isopropanol, not Irish pale ale. :-P And if I were to cut a stencil and silk-screen the boards, I'm sure I'd be able to find something that would block ferric chloride (relatively innocuous, compared to, say, nitric acid), but still be easily stripped. Oh, and "graphic artist" is "fightin' words" to me: a term for people who've taken fine arts graphic design classes, but who have never picked up a composing stick in their lives. :-P \$\endgroup\$ Commented Aug 30 at 15:34
  • \$\begingroup\$ And I'm guessing that the "c21 culture" to which Mr. Kochanski is referring is today's culture of not bothering to understand how things are made, or how they work, and just throwing money at the problem. Which of course puts one at the mercy of one's vendor. In short, the precise opposite of "maker" and "open source" culture. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Aug 30 at 18:20
  • \$\begingroup\$ Sounds like you want to do things your own way, which don't let me stand in your way, but I'll point out that you are currently at the mercy of the vendor(s) of negative-acting spray on photoresist. \$\endgroup\$
    – vir
    Commented Aug 30 at 20:24

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