In addition to the direct answer already given by others, I want to point out that this is a different circuit board construction optimized for high volume. What you probably think of as normal PCBs are at least two layer, and the copper is etched and plated with the holes drilled and the outside shape of the board routed.
These boards are different, in that the whole board is punched with a custom die for the purpose. The single punching operation cuts the outside edges and any holes in the interior. The incremental cost per board is less than separately drilling and routing, but you have to pay for the custom die. That is why this technique is only used in high volumes where the cost of the die can be amortized over many boards, thereby being a small cost per board.
One telltale sign of such boards is the golden color of the material, which is phenolic instead of fiberglass because fiberglass doesn't punch well. Note also the lack of plating inside the holes. This process doesn't allow for plating the holes without extra steps that would negate the cost savings. Since everything can't be routed in a single plane, somehow connections need to be made out of the plane. Because the holes aren't plated, there can't be vias, and there is nothing on the other side for the vias to connect to if they did exist. The answer is to insert short wires on the top side that are jumpers. Note the designators start with "J", which stands for "jumper".
This is the cheapest way to make PC boards in high volume, but there are problems. The reliability is not so good, especially in a high vibration environment. Thru hole leads are only held by the solder meniscus on the other side of the board, not inside the hole and on both sides like a plated board. This means the joints are weak, especially when subjected to pushing forces from the top of a thru hole component.
Despite that, I've seen this type of board used in the dashboard of a car. A while ago I had a Dodge Neon, and the speedometer started acting flaky after about 100,000 miles. There were thru hole vertical mount connectors on the board, and over time the solder meniscus around the pins cracked so that contact was intermittent. You had to look with a jeweler's loupe or microscope to see it, but the effect was real. I took the board out, reflowed all the solder joints and added more solder, after which the dashboard worked again. I don't know how much Chrysler saved per board, but it couldn't have been all that much, probably less than a dollar. However, they were willing to give up reliability in return for that dollar.