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Ok, so I'm a newbie with electronics and am currently attempting to do a school project that involves using a blank PCB (Idk if thats the technical term), and I don't really know how to put the various components onto the board to match the schematic. If anyone can give me advice on how to place the pieces on the board, I'd be very appreciative. Any helpful advice is great! :D Thanks!

This is the kind of board I'm using:

enter image description here

This is the schematic that I will be following: enter image description here

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    \$\begingroup\$ Is this a pad-per-hole board or are there copper bus traces that connect rows of holes together? \$\endgroup\$ – Dwayne Reid May 30 '15 at 18:00
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    \$\begingroup\$ I believe its a pad per hole board \$\endgroup\$ – HLatfullin May 30 '15 at 18:04
  • \$\begingroup\$ For some reason, I have a feeling that circuit won't work. \$\endgroup\$ – Matt Young May 30 '15 at 18:15
  • \$\begingroup\$ have a look at instructables.com/id/… \$\endgroup\$ – JIm Dearden May 30 '15 at 18:21
  • \$\begingroup\$ 1.) Is the board double-sided with plated-through holes? 2.) Are the holes on 0.1" (0.254 cm) centers horizontally and vertically? 3.) Have you been given the parts to work with or a detailed bill of materials, (manufacturer and part number) or must you select them yourself? \$\endgroup\$ – EM Fields May 30 '15 at 19:41
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I usually put the connectors on first -- you'll have three, the two audio jacks, and a barrel connector for your 9v power supply (also known as a "wall-wart"). Obviously, the barrel connect has to match the diameter of your supply plug.

Decide if your two jacks, input and output are going to go on opposite sides of the board (recommended) or side-by-side. Then put the barrel connector at end. If you have a case, this may determine where these components will be located.

If you do have a case, they will be mounted to that, and you will want to run wires to the board. Make them long enough so you can get your fingers between the board and the case to mount the connectors.

If you are not going to be using a case, it is likely the pins on the audio jacks won't be on 0.1" centers, so you can't just solder them to the board. Get some epoxy, and mount the two jacks with the pins sticking out on the sides, and let the epoxy set overnight. Same for the power jack.

Then solder in the LEDs. If you don't have a case, you will want to decide if you want them to be in the center of the board or the elsewhere. If they will be mounted on the top of the case instead of mounting them to the board, you will want to run wires to them. Again make sure they are long enough to allow you to stick the LEDs in the holes in the case.

Finally mount the two pots. Decide where you want them. If the pots are the type with cylinder-like bases, you will need to epoxy them to the board. If they will be mounted on the case, again make the wires long enough so you can mount them.

If you have any big components, like electrolytic capacitors, you would mount those next. But it looks like you don't have any.

After that, I would mount the other components from left to right and (or in your case, top to bottom), starting from your input jack, just like your schematic. That way the connections between components will be the shortest.

I like to use 30-guage wire-wrap wire to connect components together. You will also need a special stripping tool. You can get both at RadioShack.

Your circuit won't draw any appreciable current. If one is wiring up one that does, then you should a heavier gauge for the power busses and ground, perhaps 26.

enter image description here

Here's an example of a board wired this way I did a while back. The heavier wires are power busses. The black circle in the middle, and at each corner are rubber feet since the board was designed to sit on a lab bench. If you use those, leave room on the board for them (no wires).

enter image description here

Yes, it did work the first time I plugged it in.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Real quick question: How do I use the grounds on the circuit? \$\endgroup\$ – HLatfullin May 30 '15 at 20:16
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    \$\begingroup\$ Can I ask.... Did you ever try to estimate the coupling between signals? :-D If you work structured and sufficiently focussed I fully believe it works first try for a great variety of designs, by the way. I'm just poking a bit ;-) \$\endgroup\$ – Asmyldof May 30 '15 at 21:12
  • \$\begingroup\$ @Asmyldof It was a piece of test equipment. There were actually no high-frequency signals in the circuit. On the top side were a bunch of reed relays, port expanders to drive those (which ran off of 400 kHz I2C), several ADC's and DAC's, and a PIC24 using its internal oscillator. Communication back to a PC (which drove the device using Python scripts) was via UART->FTDI->USB. \$\endgroup\$ – tcrosley May 30 '15 at 22:16
  • \$\begingroup\$ @HLatfullin The ground should be connected to the ground pin of your two audio jacks and the ground pin of the barrel connector. All three of those connections should have been shown on your schematic. And then those should be wired into the ground net represented by your ground icons. \$\endgroup\$ – tcrosley May 30 '15 at 22:19

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