Silver solder, from what i currently think, is great for audio electronic pcb soldering (resistors, capacitors, ic's, ect...) yet takes extra patience and skill.
In the last seven years that i have been soldering, not much has even
possibly compared to the "PC Work" or standard solder from Radio Shack.
Out of at least seven kinds (from companies other than r-sh.), the pc-work solder (from r-sh.) has worked the best.
That being said, i must also mention that it's not only 'shiny,' it
takes less patience (fusion point about 275 deg C) than most other kinds,
even when their labels say 60/40. Other kinds often take more time and either
come out dull and 'pasty' and often do not have the 'fluidity behavior' of
the pc-work alloy combination. This can lead to frustration, unwanted fumes,
broken circuit connections, (over-heated pcbs/components), and unwanted misery.
One thing i can say, though, is that with patience, i may have a 'jem' for you.
Sparkfun dot com.
The above website was found by me off amazon by electronics123 dot com when i was looking for a bass synth. I wanted to solder together a circuit, found one, and did it (the sound generator). I was low on solder; they have incredible instructional articles that better explain many things for us beginners/enthusiasts who find some notions challenging; they recommend a solder for their circuits (which they carry, and they have info on it); i think it contains mostly silver with a pinch of copper. It has a higher melting point and takes longer and is of better quality for audio.
The time it takes is its obvious drawback, yet another important thing to know is the extra heat. If a connection requires 340 deg C, as opposed to 275 deg C, (which is an honest guess), there is risk of the extra heat damaging the circuit board or component. Some components/connections are of no worry, such as a beneficial socket-spacer for an ic (who even knew those existed?), yet some components, (in my opinion), risk damage from excess heat. Extra skill may be required to avoid over-heating components like 'glass' diodes, electrolytic capacitors, transistors (voltage regulators), or otherwise heat-sensitive components like mosfet chips [the ones in my pyle pda7bu receiver are embedded in an amazing heat sync, looks nearly 'alien'].
So, my advice is to get some solder from sparkfun dot com and use it with a soldering station. My soldering station has worked for over a year and can be changed to a specific temperature (Sunfire) - got it off amazon, it was the least expensive one and is not digital yet takes under 25 seconds to heat to its 'blinking light stage.' Get the '.99 silver' solder and try it out on a simple circuit (like: 9v+led+470ohm resistor+switch on a pcb (<- manual on/off light)).
Notice the heat and the time, as well as the fluidity. If it works for you, then using solder high in silver may be best for you. From what i understand, it makes a higher quality connection for projects like audio circuits. If you want to know more, contact the knowledgeable and creative genius' at sparkfun dot com, or read some of the info on their website. I recommend their sound generator over anything else they sell, for now; the sequencer goes with it fine yet was not as important for the effort as the generator - many varieties of options can be used as a sequencer for the sound generator's single trigger button; it can hit a preferably low bass note (shook a wall). I installed a photo-resistor to the trigger and used a strobe to make a song with a consistent, tempo-changing beat; hope this helps you along your way. :)