This is a follow up to my question from yesterday about my schematic Please review my RGB Controller

I've fixed the incorrect DC jack component that was present in my previous question, along with adding the ESP caps across the regulator and the ATTiny's VCC and GND.

Now I've made my board design, and as this is my first board design I want to make sure that I've done it correctly. I followed Jeremy Blum's tutorial to learn how to lay everything out and route the traces, and I've also ran the DRC for the board house I'm going to use (OSHPark) and everything is OK.

Before I get it printed I wanted to run it past you guys to make sure that there's not something I'm missing, or something that the DRC missed.

enter image description here

Here is the schematic, board, and the BOM (the BOM is incomplete due to Design Link being down right now): https://www.dropbox.com/s/t01ht6c0a93fs54/RGB%20Controller.zip?dl=0

Comments, suggestions, and critique is welcome!


1 Answer 1


Add reference designators to silkscreen (and several resistors in the schematic are missing refdes as well).

Decoupling caps should be close to whatever they are decoupling, not packed into a corner. Also, 20uF is a weird value, I'd switch both 20uF to 1uF low-ESR (ceramic).

If you're doing SMT for the USB connector and regulator, why not use SMT resistors and caps? Maybe even most of the diodes? You will have a much easier time putting the decoupling caps close to the things that need decoupling.

It'd be nice to clean up the right angle traces. Use 45º angles wherever possible.

Also, read the LM2596 datasheet, particularly the parts concerning layout. There are certain traces that should be shorter and thicker, especially your input cap and diode connections.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks, I'll clean up the stuff you mensioned. As to the SMD parts, I'm trying to use as many thru-hole components as I can, so I can easily solder them at home. I wasn't able to find thu-hole USB connectors, but I see that I missed the thru-hole variant of the regulator, so I'll replace the SMT one with the thru-hole \$\endgroup\$
    – Keith M
    Jan 3, 2016 at 19:41
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ I think you'll find that soldering surface mount passives isn't bad at all, as long as you don't have too many. 0805 can be comfortably soldered without any trouble, and it will drastically improve your layout. \$\endgroup\$
    – uint128_t
    Jan 3, 2016 at 19:47
  • \$\begingroup\$ Ok, I'll have a look at that then, thanks for your time and help! \$\endgroup\$
    – Keith M
    Jan 3, 2016 at 19:54
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    \$\begingroup\$ And if 0805 scares you, 1206 is pretty easy to start with. Another good idea is to make smd pads a little larger if you are planning to solder it manually. It's easier. I have made two packages for most of my smd packages - reflow type and manual type. While prototyping, I use manual type package and once everything works, I place bulk orders using reflow type packages. \$\endgroup\$ Jan 3, 2016 at 20:45

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