Is there a single 7400 series IC which does this directly?
(I know can do this with 4*NOT + 4*AND gates, but that will be 2 ICs.)
Truth table:
in | out
h l | 3 2 1 0
----+--------
0 0 | 0 0 0 1
0 1 | 0 0 1 0
1 0 | 0 1 0 0
1 1 | 1 0 0 0
(I'm not looking to mux/demux a signal.)
Sure. The chip you want is known as a decoder. Specifically, you are looking for a 2-to-4 decoder, or 1-of-4 decoder.
A cursory glance at the 7400 series logic list suggests that a 74139 would work for you, it's actually a dual 2-to-4 decoder.
Most decoders will have an enable input, from your truth table, it appears you don't need this, so you can simply tie it to whichever voltage is enable (most enables are active low, so you would tie it low).
If a '139 doesn't work or is difficult to source:
However, as long as you don't need teeny-tiny packages, Digikey has '139s in SOIC and DIP.
Edit: as Chris Stratton pointed out, these devices have active low outputs (the selected line is low while all others are high). If your downstream logic cannot deal with this, the '239 is probably what you are looking for. It's the same as '139, except with active-high outputs.
Unfortunately, these are not as easy to find in stock. The '238 can be found on Digikey, albeit the 74AC family version.
If you've got some glue logic laying around you can do it like this:
