8
\$\begingroup\$

Hi I have seen a design for some LED strip lighting that is very simple to understand but am really looking for the various components so that I can replicate it. It seems that I don't know the right keywords for a successful google search so if you could translate it into the right components I would be grateful.

The wardrobe shelving is cantilevered off the wall. The system comprises of metal wall profiles and metal shelf brackets that hang off this and attach to the shelves.

Now here's the cool bit. The wall profile has an electrical dual contact strip running the entire length of the profile - about 2meters - this is connected to a 12V transformer to drop the mains voltage - this is no more than 1-2mm thick and 8mm wide: Contact Strip

The shelf bracket then has what looks like a strip of flexible circuit board with adhesive backing and a pair of electrical contacts at both ends. The far end contacts look like they are sprung prouder - almost small ball switches on an LED strip - so that when you insert the bracket into the wall profile, they get a good connection: Connection Original

There is a similar connection on the side of the shelf itself so when it is attached to the bracket you get a good connection as well: Shelf Contacts The LED's are then wired normally by coring through the shelf and routing a channel for the LED profile:

This design means that if you need to change the configuration of the shelf you don;t need to do any re-wiring.

So the components I'm looking for is:

  • The long contact strip - possibly some sort of dual silver alloy strip?
  • The slim pair of contact terminals
  • The ball switch connectors for the shelving.

I hope this make sense.

Thank you

fig1

5

6

\$\endgroup\$
  • \$\begingroup\$ Interesting concept. You might have more luck getting information on this on the Home Improvement/DIY stackexchange. \$\endgroup\$ – Peter Bennett Sep 30 '16 at 23:11
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes I'm really trying to find out what the components are really - I don't know if people on DIY forums would know what they are. I think the ball bearing type contact are spring loaded connectors, but I don't know what the rest would come under. \$\endgroup\$ – RoshDamunki Oct 1 '16 at 14:46
  • \$\begingroup\$ Perhaps this would give you some ideas: digikey.com/product-search/en/connectors-interconnects/… \$\endgroup\$ – rioraxe Oct 1 '16 at 22:10
  • \$\begingroup\$ I believe that you will need to contact PCB manufacturer to make the long contact strips on whatever material is appropriate for your use. I am also sure they can provide the bracket for the spring loaded micro switches (will not be cheap). Good luck \$\endgroup\$ – Guill Oct 6 '16 at 21:15
  • \$\begingroup\$ Moving contact rails are a BAD idea. Fixed track lights OK, but never moving. Just use StripLeds. If you need flex circuit wiring OK. But never sliding contacts. \$\endgroup\$ – Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75 Oct 8 '16 at 20:57
1
\$\begingroup\$

Just an idea - Why not power every vertical wall mounted bracket with DC - the first bracket positive, second ground, then positive, ground etc. Each shelf rail connecting to the bracket carries the current along to the edge. (Either via cable or possibly through the metal of the rail itself for the ground connections) Use a rectifier then at the shelf edges to correctly orientate the power for the led strip. Much easier then as there is just the one contact to be made at each joint....

\$\endgroup\$
  • \$\begingroup\$ This seems an excellent solution. Bear in mind that the brackets will be exposed and present a short-circuit hazard from clothes-hangers and who knows what else. A suitable circuit breaker or current limiter on each + rail might be a good idea. \$\endgroup\$ – Transistor Oct 8 '16 at 20:48
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes I did look at this option. But there are a few problems: \$\endgroup\$ – RoshDamunki Oct 10 '16 at 12:10
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes I did look at this option. But there are problems: 1) The gap for the shelf rail housing is only 5mm and the rail itself is 3.5mm. That means for a row of shelves I would need to get two contacts either side of the intermediate rail into 1.5mm (The rail configuration is End rail right /shelf /rail/ shelf/ end rail left) 2) This does means a lot of extra routing of the shelf itself which would be hard to hide. \$\endgroup\$ – RoshDamunki Oct 10 '16 at 12:17
0
\$\begingroup\$

I would strongly discourage any concept of sliding contactor method due to dust , corrosion, bugs , oxidation, plating wear, unreliable contacts.

The ONLY reliable power contacts under 2A are gold plated , hence all relays are rated as <2A have gold plated contacts over nickel or some other strong substrate.

Above 2A they use silver alloy, palladium and other low resistance materials in an enclosed space.

I have implemented StripLeds and high power DC LED arrays using old laptop charger supplies and used the sliding glass door to turn on the typical wall mounted AC paddle switch for switching the 12Vdc ON, (bump) then manual OFF

enter image description here

Just as a reminder, my Central Vac uses plated contacts with a remote 24V relay and the circuit connects to the metal plating around hose bracket when inserted and all these 2mm round contacts have failed after 5 years, so I have to twist the hose to make contact.

Stripleds under shelves make the most sense and come in 5m 8mm reels in a wide range of chromatic options and power levels running off 12-15V depending on desired power.

LED flood lights come on Alum-clad boards for DC or the usual PAR lamps.

Mine are custom and I can use 16 to 40Ws on these arrays for brighter than sunlight (if I wanted) bright closets, ideal for clothing selection in the dark with half closed eyes.

Here I am using 16V and about 20W enter image description here

\$\endgroup\$
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes my design has no enclosure capabilities - it's totally open so I have to light under shelf. All of this would be easy if it is not a modular system but everything can be moved and this is the problem. Finding a solution that you can move without rewiring \$\endgroup\$ – RoshDamunki Oct 10 '16 at 12:27
  • \$\begingroup\$ Fixed stripleds with flexible retraction cable is the best solution. We once had a tall cabinet with 19" rack mounts with sliding drawers with 8 wide ribbon cables and AC power cables all neatly bundled with a critical loop to avoid snagging and friction, yet permit full drawer extension. Flex circuit wire is used the same way in automotive designs... never sliding contact exposed power rails. choose suitable connectors found on some strip leds, get custom made and design moving interconnect cable with motion in the axial direction of loop, not radial. \$\endgroup\$ – Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75 Oct 10 '16 at 12:58
  • \$\begingroup\$ I think your power distribution for lighting is flawed due to environmental effects on sliding contacts \$\endgroup\$ – Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75 Oct 10 '16 at 13:01
  • \$\begingroup\$ What about conductive Fabric on Foam gaskets HERE? I'm pretty certain this is what is being used for the long strips in the example above. It looks as though I can design some thin PCBs / Flex Circuits to carry that signal to the lights themselves. \$\endgroup\$ – RoshDamunki Oct 10 '16 at 15:19
  • \$\begingroup\$ Also nothing will be sliding in this configuration. Once the brackets slide into place they are fixed and will not move in daily use. It is only when you want to relocate the shelf that they will move. So the movement will be very limited - 5 times a years at the most..? But it means that the end user doesn't have to rewire all the time. \$\endgroup\$ – RoshDamunki Oct 10 '16 at 15:24

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.