So the left button of my mouse was broken and I wanted to repair it by replacing the switch. But when I took the switch off the solder pad came off too. As you can see in the picture below I tore it off clean. Is there anything I can do to save and fix this?

enter image description here

For the record I am a beginner in soldering so I am new to many terminology and methods. Thanks!

  • \$\begingroup\$ I'd recommend to try to get hold of exactly the same replacement microswitch first. I think it will cost you more than a new mouse. \$\endgroup\$
    – Janka
    Jul 20, 2017 at 23:34
  • \$\begingroup\$ It's actually really cheap I needed the switch for the Logitech MX Anywhere. No more than 2 bucks for a single piece. Hopefully the quality is alright. Getting 5 of them them next week. \$\endgroup\$ Jul 21, 2017 at 0:00

3 Answers 3


As @DigitalNinja says, solder and crazy glue would do it. Perhaps get a hand lens, or one of those lighted magnifier strap-ons. so you can see close up.

It looks like the trace leading to the missing pad is going through the white letters "R6", then dives into the board through a small round "via." Use the back of a razor-knife to scrap all the green soldermask off this trace and via. Don't scrape off the copper.

I'd try first gluing down the torn-off pad in its original place. (Carefully unsolder it from the switch, without bending it, then glue it down using a tiny droplet of crazy glue.)

Then, use solder to "tin" the scraped copper trace, then solder a tiny wire from the glued pad to the trace. Finally, solder in the new switch.

Normally it's a very bad idea to glue down a component, but for a heavily-used button you might consider it. Crazy-glue under the switch body after it's soldered, since the copper pads are the only thing holding it down, and they aren't as strong as before. (Otherwise, glue parts down with silicone caulk, which doesn't prevent later removal.)

  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks for your answer I'll try that. I didn't have the switches yet when I was removing the broken switch. I am receiving the switches next week. Will let you know when it's done. \$\endgroup\$ Jul 20, 2017 at 23:56
  • \$\begingroup\$ I just did it. It works great now. But it was really difficult to make it stick. The traces were very small. Also there was a resistor next to it. Any tips on making it stick easier for future projects? \$\endgroup\$ Jul 26, 2017 at 15:52
  • \$\begingroup\$ @Dev Article is about a broken mouse switch. No batteries mentioned. Gluing a disconnected copper pad affected a nearby battery? Or gluing the battery itself? Also, was it glue-heating, because soldering of PCB battery live terminals is hazardous: any contact at the wrong spot (brief short circuit) can destroy some battery types. \$\endgroup\$
    – wbeaty
    Oct 29, 2018 at 4:00
  • \$\begingroup\$ My advice was for a broken connector. No batteries were involved. NEVER GLUE DOWN COMPONENTS. (Except this particular broken connector!) \$\endgroup\$
    – wbeaty
    Nov 4, 2018 at 18:26

If the trace leading to the pad is accessible, you can use an X-acto knife (or a similar precision blade) to carefully scrape away the solder mask and expose the copper trace. Then you can either use a small bit of wire or a solder bridge to repair the connection to the switch. After you successfully test the repair, you can finish it off with a small dab of superglue to hold the wire and/or switch in place.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks I am receiving the switches next week will update you when its done \$\endgroup\$ Jul 20, 2017 at 23:57

The other answers here are actually wrong.

The best course of action is to use a conductive epoxy to bond the trace to the pad, similar to using crazy glue, but this would ensure that you have a connection, in the worst case.

This is an old question, but just in case anyone else reads this.

While crazy glue might seem like a good idea, a beginner has the chance of gluing the pad and removing connections, an epoxy will also withstand more abuse.


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