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I have this IEC connector with an illuminated single-pole switch.

Here is how it looks like from back side: enter image description here

As you see above the earth, line and the neutral are mentioned. But for the switch side there is no marks so I marked them as A B and C.

Here is the catalog for this type of connectors: http://www.bulgin.com/media/bulgin/data/Power%20Entry%20Modules.pdf

If you go to page 277 you find this model named as C20 IEC Inlet.

I cannot see any kind of information how line and neutral will be wired to the illuminated switch. Is there a standard or how can I figure this out?

Edit:

Let's say I would know which pin is 1 2 and 3.

There can be two ways to wire this:

Config 1

enter image description here

or

Config 2

enter image description here

Dashed gray line is when the switch is OFF. I think the pin 2 is the fixed pin.

But which configuration is better than the other one?

Btw I only tried Config 1 and the switch makes arc like sound when one turns it on.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ How you connect this switch and the connector is totally up to you – why should the manufacturer tell you how to build whatever you're building with their plug and switch? \$\endgroup\$ – Marcus Müller Nov 11 '17 at 15:45
  • \$\begingroup\$ @MarcusMüller Do you mean A=line B=C=neutral or A=B=line C=neutral also okay? There are many combinations man. (?) I didnt get it \$\endgroup\$ – floppy380 Nov 11 '17 at 15:55
  • \$\begingroup\$ Pop the switch out of the holder, the circuit diagram is on the side, not the bottom. \$\endgroup\$ – Ron Beyer Nov 11 '17 at 16:11
  • \$\begingroup\$ @RonBeyer I did what you say and there is no diagram on sides of it when I pop it up from the frame. There is only some rated values but no diagram at all. Not even pin numbers 1 2 3 are mentioned. \$\endgroup\$ – floppy380 Nov 11 '17 at 17:17
  • \$\begingroup\$ Please see my edit. \$\endgroup\$ – floppy380 Nov 11 '17 at 17:52
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Take a look a page 2 of that document and you’ll see this: enter image description here This says to me that you want to connect the hot input to pin 1, your load to pin 2 and neutral to pin 3 to complete the circuit for the light.

Now as for which pins are 1, 2 and 3, that’s not clear but take and ohmmeter and check to see which pins open and close with the switch: those are 1 and 2. If the light stays on even with the switch open, you have 1 and 2 switched - easy to fix.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Please see my edit. I would like to have your comment \$\endgroup\$ – floppy380 Nov 11 '17 at 17:52
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That datasheet is difficult to interpret.

schematic

simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab

Figure 1. Switch schematic.

Given the problem I would approach it as follows:

Using a continuity tester identify the switch contacts. They will go between over-range and zero when opened and closed. The third contact is neutral.

enter image description here

Figure 2. Possible wiring. Colour codes are European.

  • If 'C' is the neutral then wire it up as shown.
  • Power up and test the switch. The power indicator should go from off to on with the switch.
  • If the indicator remains on with the switch then swap the two non-neutral wires on the switch.
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  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks and did you see my Edit? What do you think of that? \$\endgroup\$ – floppy380 Nov 11 '17 at 19:07
  • \$\begingroup\$ I saw your edit and reckoned you needed some help with electrical schematic symbols. I couldn't make much sense of it. There's a schematic tool built into the editor toolbar. It uses standard symbols. \$\endgroup\$ – Transistor Nov 11 '17 at 19:13
  • \$\begingroup\$ Alright let me ask you this way then. Lets focus on your picture(the second one). If the wire LOAD goes to A,and Line L goes to B, would that be still okay? \$\endgroup\$ – floppy380 Nov 11 '17 at 19:27
  • \$\begingroup\$ If it works it's fine. The very important thing is that you don't short out L and N when the switch contacts close. \$\endgroup\$ – Transistor Nov 11 '17 at 19:42

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