Sorry for what may be a super rookie question.

I have a Klein MM1000 multimeter. http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/discontinued-products/manual-ranging-multimeter

When I use the tool's 1.5 V battery mode on the 1.5V battery, I get about 1.5 V - as expected.

When I use the tool's 20V / 2V DC mode, I get "1", which, according to online, means the I've exceeded the voltage range.

I really just wanted to test my car battery, but I could not get a good reading there either.

Could the tool be broken or am I misusing it?

Thanks in advance.

Update - I also tested the fuses using the multimeter itself and they had connectivity, so I don't think it's a blown fuse. I ended up just using the battery function of the multimeter to test my car battery, even though it was only 9 and 2V options (car batter is supposed to be about 12-13 V, mine was at 10). However I still don't understand why I couldn't just use the 20V DC option. Perhaps I need to take it up with the manufacturer.

  • \$\begingroup\$ You do have it set for DC volts and not AC... its pointing to AC in the pic. \$\endgroup\$ – Solar Mike Nov 25 '17 at 6:57
  • \$\begingroup\$ @SolarMike - Yes, I have it on DC unlike in the pic on the linked page. \$\endgroup\$ – user420667 Nov 25 '17 at 7:03
  • \$\begingroup\$ Have you pushed the hold button and fixed the range? Connect it to the 12v battery then push the range button and see how the display changes. \$\endgroup\$ – Solar Mike Nov 25 '17 at 7:10
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ You have it switched to the 20V DC range? What happens when you switch it to the 200V range? \$\endgroup\$ – Spehro Pefhany Nov 25 '17 at 7:36
  • \$\begingroup\$ @SolarMike - Thanks that didn't do much. I think the hold button was supposed to just keep it where it's at, though I don't really understand the purpose tbh. \$\endgroup\$ – user420667 Nov 26 '17 at 19:12

This is a repair possibility based on the fact the fuses are okay and that none of the voltage ranges work on a manually ranged DMM.

Assuming somewhat typical construction, you can take the thing apart and look to see if the screw- typical there is one and it is concentric with the switch axis of rotation- that holds the switch rotor in place has gotten loose. That could cause the wipers to (partially) no longer contact the PCB surface that typically acts as the contacts in cheap multimeters (photo of another brand of multimeter from this website). Do not remove the rotor entirely lest you have problems with springy parts escaping.

enter image description here

This is mostly for interest. Unless it says "Fluke" on it (and even then perhaps not), handheld multimeters are hardly worth repairing at developed country labor values.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Unfortunately after fixing the car over the weekend I'm no longer in touch with the multimeter, but I'll definitely check back on this within a month's time. Thanks! \$\endgroup\$ – user420667 Nov 27 '17 at 23:36

When using a multi-meter make sure that you set the voltage range higher than the maximum expected voltage you're measuring. Also ensure you're measuring in DC mode not AC, as indicated in the lower left corner of your multi-meter screen.

Since you're trying to measure your car battery voltage (which nominally should be around 13-14V even though it's a 12V battery) you should set your multi-meter to 20V.

Also ensure you're using the two rightmost ports on the multi-meter. (The left port is for measuring in-line current)


Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.