I have heard that the usage of a power cable to a washing machine is not recommended, however I do not have other option for connecting as I have no bathroom power outlets.

What is the general problem with using a power strip, you can use it on various things, but not on washing machine as it seems to me. Is it because of around 2.5 kilowat potential max (which you barely ever hit it unless you wash on 90 celsius) power which is most of the time higher than any other appliance. From this asumpstion then you should not use water heaters, microwaves and vaccuum cleaners too? Or is it because it is the extended period of use that tha can heat up the cable and cause fire hazards? In this case can't I just get a thicker cable?

What cables types are there, what thickness should I get what is the biggest con of using one, do I need to have a surge protection on a cable like this, what are your recommendations (link me amazon if needed).



closed as off-topic by Harry Svensson, pipe, Wesley Lee, R Drast, brhans Dec 5 '17 at 12:07

This question appears to be off-topic. The users who voted to close gave this specific reason:

  • "Questions on the use of electronic devices are off-topic as this site is intended specifically for questions on electronics design." – pipe, Wesley Lee, R Drast, brhans
If this question can be reworded to fit the rules in the help center, please edit the question.

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    \$\begingroup\$ Is it because of around 2.5 kilowat potential max (which you barely ever hit it unless you wash on 90 celsius) Not true the heating element does not run at a lower power when washing at 40 C for example. The heating element will be ~ 2.5 KW and that is fixed. What does happen is that it is on for a shorter time. The time it needs to reach 40 C. Which obviously takes less time than reaching 90 C. \$\endgroup\$ – Bimpelrekkie Dec 5 '17 at 8:47
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    \$\begingroup\$ You should have PE(=the protective earth) and fault current protection in your electricity distribution system . Have you? Without them the people who use the system and others in the house, too, are in danger. All parts of the extension cable must stand the needed current without getting hot. The extension must be watertight (=allowed to be used outdoors). What is the AC voltage in your home? If it's 120 volts, you need a cable with really thick wires. \$\endgroup\$ – user287001 Dec 5 '17 at 8:57
  • \$\begingroup\$ Hope you don't have a pet rabbit. Nom nom. \$\endgroup\$ – replete Dec 5 '17 at 9:00
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    \$\begingroup\$ I suspect that the washing machine is not rated to be used in a bathroom. A bathroom is often a humid environment with water condensing onto things. That could present a deadly electrocution hazard from the washing machine. \$\endgroup\$ – Andrew Morton Dec 5 '17 at 9:01
  • \$\begingroup\$ The 2.5 kW is not a maximum achieved only when heating to 90 °C, it is the power used when the heater is on, even if it is only heating the water to 40 °C. \$\endgroup\$ – Andrew Morton Dec 5 '17 at 9:03

Using an extension cord is possible but introduces safety risks.

If you use an extension cord with the correct rating and correct grounding connection then I see no reason why you cannot use an extension cord.

Do use a cord of the right length, if it is too long and you wind part of the cord in a small bundle or loop, that could overheat and cause fire.

The recommendation not to use a extension cord is to prevent issues that most people cannot foresee. Like improper grounding and the rating of the cable. And pets eating the cable ;-) (thanks to replete, I didn't think of that one).

Most people think: if it fits, it's OK. Unfortunately it is not that simple so it is safer to just recommend against it and have people get an electrician to install an extra outlet. The electrician is aware of all the issues and should do a proper job.

  • \$\begingroup\$ +1. It is all too easy for people to buy terrible extension cords for rock bottom prices. These are often CCA too. They should be viewed as an investment not as just another electronic consumable. \$\endgroup\$ – replete Dec 5 '17 at 9:03
  • \$\begingroup\$ Can you please forward me to some particular brands/models that will have the needed stats? \$\endgroup\$ – appwizcpl Dec 5 '17 at 9:12
  • \$\begingroup\$ No, you'll have to look for those yourself. Alternative: make a photo of the sticker/plate on the Washing machine, go to a local hardware store, show them the photo and ask them for a suitable cord. \$\endgroup\$ – Bimpelrekkie Dec 5 '17 at 9:31
  • \$\begingroup\$ I was falling asleep and completely forgot to mention that I am located in Europe and we use schuko. \$\endgroup\$ – appwizcpl Dec 5 '17 at 17:59
  • \$\begingroup\$ @Bimpelrekkie Do I generally need to look for 3x2.5mm2 cables or higher? \$\endgroup\$ – appwizcpl Dec 6 '17 at 4:29

I would worry about the water and humidity in the bathroom. That's probably the reason why you don't have an outlet in the bathroom in the first place. Having electrical appliances in the bathroom is risky because they might cause electric shocks and they might malfunction because of the humidity.

If you don't have another option for installing your washing machine, I think you should call an electrician to install an outlet, preferably one for outdoor use or waterproof. A professional will use the proper cable, so you don't have to deal with it.

If that is not an option either, then get the shortest cable that does the job (to minimize voltage drops on the cable), make sure that the power rating of the cable is equal to (or exceeds) the maximum power rating of the washing machine and get one that has a single outlet at the end, so there is less chance of humidity getting in. I would also keep it somewhere above the floor, so no water reaches it in case the floor is flooded.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Depending on where you are you may need a GFCI for bathroom sockets and you should use one for this application anyway. \$\endgroup\$ – RoyC Dec 5 '17 at 10:27

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