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I want to make a stage box (with light in it) so when the guitarist or singer steps on it, it lights up. In the box I want to use a 12W (or maybe later 2) LED lights (which have a normal EU power plug).

I want to make initially two means of turning them on:

  1. By stepping on the box (on a plateau)
  2. By pressing a foot pedal

The reason is that I don't know if I can make option 1 very reliable, so option 2 is a backup.

Also since both options might fail, I want to use rocker toggle switches to bypass both options (meaning if both rocker switches are ON/bypass, the light should always light up).

I changed the answer to use a relay (instead of using mains, as of the comment of MrGerber below).

After update

I had the following circuit in mind, but I wonder:

  • If it is a good way to bypass this way
  • If for the foot bypass switch, I really need a DPDT switch (I couldn't find any other way).
  • If I need another way as the relay.

(actually the 12W Led lamp is inserted with a normal power EU 220V plug, but I couldn't find a symbol for this).

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    \$\begingroup\$ Quite frankly, I would not have my guitarist or vocalist step on something that is fabri-cobbled together and connected to mains voltage. \$\endgroup\$ – MrGerber Jan 5 '18 at 15:39
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    \$\begingroup\$ A guitarist asks: What's a plateau switch? What do you mean by "box"? Why would either method fail? Finally, do it all with 9V. Surely almost every guitarist has a 9V wall wart on stage? \$\endgroup\$ – DiBosco Jan 5 '18 at 15:51
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    \$\begingroup\$ Instead of assuming that the switch will come loose, secure it properly the first time. Then you won't have to do the job twice, and the end product will be simpler, more reliable, and less crappy overall. If the pressure mounting system that you allude to won't cut it, use a different mounting system that will. \$\endgroup\$ – Dampmaskin Jan 5 '18 at 16:14
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    \$\begingroup\$ I have to agree with @Dampmaskin. Back in the early 90s I designed myself a couple of foot switches for use on stage including one with that really heavy duty metal plunger and round bit on the top and that still works fine. There's absolutely no reason why a switch should fail if it's put together well. As far as "needing" 220V for the LED lamp, I don't get this, LEDs run from a far smaller voltage and some are really bright these days. There is really no reason to need mains on the foot switch. Honest, guv :) \$\endgroup\$ – DiBosco Jan 5 '18 at 16:21
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    \$\begingroup\$ Oh, OK. I see now and I see you've modified the schematic. A relay looks better. Still think you only need one switch though. Is this going to be switched on and off a lot? \$\endgroup\$ – DiBosco Jan 5 '18 at 18:07
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If any one (or all) of the switches should turn on the lights, just connect all the switches in parallel. No need to take any switch out-of-circuit, unless you expect it to fail "On".

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  • \$\begingroup\$ It's not that simple, because it's like on/off switches, like one press: on, next press off. Like two switches being able to switch the same lamp in a house. \$\endgroup\$ – Michel Keijzers Jan 6 '18 at 1:42
  • \$\begingroup\$ @MichelKeijzers: what you are using are commonly called "alternate action switch" - that wasn't clear to me from your original post. If you are using alternate action switches, then you will have to remove the unwanted switches from the circuit, and simply paralleling switches won't work. \$\endgroup\$ – Peter Bennett Jan 6 '18 at 2:16
  • \$\begingroup\$ ok, I will have to check into this further, just for my understanding, an alternate action switch is the same as a lock switch or toggle switch? And a 'simple?'action switch is the same as a lockless switch or momentary switch? \$\endgroup\$ – Michel Keijzers Jan 6 '18 at 12:04
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    \$\begingroup\$ An alternate action switch would be a "push-on/push-off" pushbutton, while a normal pushbutton would be push-on/release off. A toggle switch is operated by a lever, rather than a pushbutton (my terminology - others may vary) \$\endgroup\$ – Peter Bennett Jan 6 '18 at 16:21
  • \$\begingroup\$ Ok, in that case the plateau-switch should be normal push button and the floor switch an alternate action switch :-) \$\endgroup\$ – Michel Keijzers Jan 6 '18 at 17:23
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I would put the plateau on 4 springs. One contact under the plateau, the other on the frame of the box. 3mm between the two contacts, aka "the switch". When the guitarist steps on, the springs get pressed and the contacts get closed. If the springs can be pressed with 1/10 of the weight of a person, the switch will be reliable IMO. It's a good idea to use a relay. It allows you connect whatever device you want. I would use 9 or 12V to power the coils of the relay. 5V is less reliable. Make sure the connection is either 100% off or 100% on mecanicaly and that contacts are never slightly touching each other.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes also thought about the springs, but I'm not so handy with the 'hardware' part and the guy who wants to make it says springs are not 'needed'. The plateau is a metal grate/grill with holes, so a spring might be harder to attach. Probably I can add a 9V adapter (from 220V). \$\endgroup\$ – Michel Keijzers Jan 6 '18 at 1:46
  • \$\begingroup\$ You can use very small springs, just enough to keep the plateau 3 mm above the contact. You can also use laser sensors or other sensors, but it's more complicated IMO, electronicaly than spring switches. \$\endgroup\$ – Fredled Jan 6 '18 at 1:55
  • \$\begingroup\$ I would have to check into that, thanks, on a YouTube video I saw somebody using weather strips (to put to windows/doors), which seem very easy to attach/glue. \$\endgroup\$ – Michel Keijzers Jan 6 '18 at 12:02
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After DiBosco's comment to remove the bypass switches (and my idea to add an Always On switch instead, and remove the floor switch):

schematic

simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab

This answers all my questions, although the functionality is different than requested, but probably better (if I can make the plateau switch very reliable).

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