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This is a project work of power generation from speed breaker.I am using an IBL-100SW dc motor in my project as a generator to produce power.I am getting a voltage from 3V to 18V and current of 0.1mA to 6.8mA.The rpm varies from 1100 to 3000.But the time duration is very small like 2 to 6 milliseconds. Now I want to store it in a battery.I am a noob in electrical circuit design.Can anyone help me with the components and circuit diagram?Any type of readily available battery type will be good for me.

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    \$\begingroup\$ If you are "getting current," then that means the output of your generator is connected to something. What is it connected to? \$\endgroup\$ – Solomon Slow Apr 10 '18 at 13:37
  • \$\begingroup\$ I am measuring the current and voltage using two multimeters in a series connection.Just to record the output of the setup. \$\endgroup\$ – Anabil Apr 10 '18 at 13:38
  • \$\begingroup\$ Something is weird, from a 1200W motor you get only 6.8mA at 18V? 0.1W? Please put a load on it , a 12V power light bulb in parallel to voltmeter and post results again. As I understand the ammeter now is showing the current through the voltmeter. For such short duration a capacitor is more appropriate. \$\endgroup\$ – Dorian Apr 10 '18 at 14:50
  • \$\begingroup\$ And you're measuring a 2-6 msec transient with mulitimeters? Or are you getting 2-6 msec transients at several times per revolution? \$\endgroup\$ – WhatRoughBeast Apr 10 '18 at 18:53
  • \$\begingroup\$ IMPORTANT: DO NOT go away. We want to help but we need you to help us to help you. Telling US as much information as YOU have available will help us to help you. A link to the motor details, a description of it (V, A, AC/DC, type, ...) and a clear description of what you are measuring and how and with what, Saying "the time duration is small" could mean a range of things. Doe sthat mean a pulse per cycle?. How do you measure it? etc. \$\endgroup\$ – Russell McMahon Apr 10 '18 at 23:31
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The IBL100-SW motor - description here and here and here
is a 3 phase brushless motor with DC input. This indicates that it has an internal controller. The electronics of the controller isolate the actual motor from the inputs and mean that it needs relatively minor / simple / low cost modification to make it suitable for use as an alternator or generator. You will need to open the motor and locate the controller to motor connections.

The motor is probably connected to the controller by 3 or 4 wires. These are the 3 phase leads and perhaps a neutral lead. To use the motor as an alternator the 3 x phase connections from controller to motor should be electrically broken (unsoldered or unbolted or wires but or ...?) and the 3 x phase leads and neutral if present need to be brought out to the outside of the motor to act as alternator connections.

The now available 3 phase output can be converted to DC by the use of diodes.
How many and how they are best connected depends on whether you have 3 or 4 wires.
With 3 wires, for each phase wire you connect a diode (anode to motor) to DC+ output and a diode (Cathode to motor) to DC- output. With 4 wires you can do the same, but the neutral wire provides a mid point V/2 volts below and above the V+ and V- outputs respectively.

For initial testing you can use any two wires plus a single diode to determine if the motor is producing the order of output expected.

Depending on which web page you read the motor is rated at 500 to 1000+ Watts as a motor at nominal 36V, so as a rectified alternator you should get at least hundreds of Watts at rated speed.

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