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I'm using Verowire (wiring pencil, Road Runner, you name it) quite often to contact test points on my board to make them accessible for measurements (oscilloscope probe, multimeter clamp ...)

enter image description here

Image source: Not a number.

Every now and then it happens, that the insulation will not melt away and make soldering the verowire almost impossible.

I usually have to cut off a piece and start again - which seems odd as some people are creating artworks with Verowire.

What I usually do:

  1. Temperature 350-400 °C
  2. Blob of solder on the iron
  3. Insert the end of the Verowire into the blob (usually melts the insulation and tins the wire)
  4. Solder wire to test point

Any points which I'm doing blatantly wrong in that approach?

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    \$\begingroup\$ Note that for most of them the insulation only reliably decomposes when >350°C a temperature you often don't reach if you just set the iron to 400°C and quickly melt a bit solder and dip it into. \$\endgroup\$ – PlasmaHH Jul 4 '18 at 12:11
  • \$\begingroup\$ @PlasmaHH I'm not that quick and use a JBC solder station, so it heats pretty quickly. Thanks for the input though, knowing that >350 °C is required is a plus. \$\endgroup\$ – Arsenal Jul 4 '18 at 12:20
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    \$\begingroup\$ I've never ever heard about verowire. A quick google tells me that it's most likely what wikipedia calls a wiring pencil. If that's the right gadget, maybe you can add a link to the question? \$\endgroup\$ – pipe Jul 4 '18 at 12:32
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    \$\begingroup\$ @pipe I've added a link to that Wikipedia article, I didn't know how to call that thing before I came to this site and thought that verowire was the common name for it because it popped up here in some answers. \$\endgroup\$ – Arsenal Jul 4 '18 at 12:45
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    \$\begingroup\$ @Pipe Verowire, like Veroboard, is a UK based prototyping system from the 1970s. Internationally, "wiring pencil" and "stripboard" are more recognised terms. \$\endgroup\$ – Brian Drummond Jul 4 '18 at 13:20
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Drag a scalpel blade along the bit you want to tin, making a bright copper spot, and dip into flux, before inserting into solder blob.

The insulation is self-fluxing once it gets up to temperature, but this trick gets copper into contact with hot solder immediately, speeding up the process.

Also, arrange a fan to remove the smoke; it contain isocyanates which aren't very nice to breathe.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ I've tried this method a few times over the last weeks and it seems to help. \$\endgroup\$ – Arsenal Jul 30 '18 at 13:30

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