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I recently installed an amplifier and sub woofer in my car and it is gets up to 40C where I live so my amp gets VERY hot. I want to build a box/amp rack for the amp which will have fans on each side on push pull with a fan controller to turn them on/ramp them up depending on the temperature of the amp.

This is the controller that i want to use https://www.acinfinity.com/cabinet-fan-systems/controller-2-intelligent-thermal-fan-controller-single-zone/#product-warranty There are controllers that I can simply power off a USB plug but those don't have the features I need.

You can see on the picture that the controller accepts 7V, 2A DC power through a DC plug, which is meant to be plugged into the wall and installed in a media cabinet or something similar. So now I am trying to figure out how I can hook it up to my car battery.

I was thinking of using a DC-DC regulator like this one I found on amazon https://amzn.to/2PluCe8 . Would I be able to wire that to the REMOTE connector from my head unit(12V) and the ground wire from my amp (so it only turns on when the head unit is on) or would there be a better way to go about doing this?

TLDR : Trying to install fan controller that accepts 7V 2A in my car to cool amplifier.

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    \$\begingroup\$ Should be fine. The one you linked to are more powerful than needed though. \$\endgroup\$ – winny Aug 19 '18 at 8:41
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    \$\begingroup\$ That looks like a nice fan controller, but it may be better to use a fan and controller meant to run at automotive voltages. \$\endgroup\$ – K H Aug 20 '18 at 0:53
  • \$\begingroup\$ That was my original plan, but the only decent controller I found which was meant for that purpose was 100 dollars+ with pretty basic functionality. \$\endgroup\$ – Mazen Mustafa Aug 20 '18 at 14:50
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Regular PC cooling fans are 12V. There are tons of speed controls for them with temperature sensor. Both pieces can be found under $5.

Also there are slightly more expensive fans with built-in temperature control, like Arctic F12TC. With these no additional speed control is necessary.

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You should use a relay driven by the REMOTE supply so that the load is not directly supplied by the head unit.

Suitably fused of course.

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