Judging by the the relay markings of NC and NO on the PCB, you have swapped the NC and NO of the relay.
NC means Normally Closed. NO means Normally Opened. 'Normally' in the sense that this is the state the relay is in when it's not powered.
In the schematic you can see that the NC side of the relay goes to the 0R1 power resistor - which is correct. The board you've made routes the NO side of the relay to the 0R1 power resistor - which is incorrect.
I checked the datasheet of the relay:
Your PCB was right after all, the markings on your PCB (NO and NC) just aren't... Sorry about the confusion, I assumed the markings would be correct. Lesson to both of us: Always check the datasheet :-)
Ok, since I've started this, I'll try to finish it. I thought it might be a simple solution, but unfortunately...
- I looked at the PCB and the schematic, and I think they match.
- LM358N is fine. The N at the end just means it's in a DIP package.
- Measure the voltage at the + of C1. Should be 5V. If not, did you use a zener diode of 5V? (It's not a regular diode, just checking.)
- Remove IC1 from the socket. Relay&LED1 should be off and motor should turn. Only LED3 should be on. If not (relay&LED1 on, motor off): Transistor is BC1815, right? If you've used a different type, check if the pins are at the right position. Like a BC547 has the pins in a different location. Otherwise: Replace transistor.
- If you've ever accidently reversed the polarity of the INPUT, you might want to replace IC1.
- Check the PCB for bad connections or short circuits.
- Then, most importantly: The design is just wrong. The datasheet of the LM358 says: The upper end of the common mode voltage range is VCC−1.7V, which in your case is 12-1.7=10.3V. With this design, the common mode voltage is 11.47V, which is not acceptable. It won't destroy the IC, but it might not behave correctly. So even if you've done everything right, this circuit might still not work (possibly depending on the batch or brand of IC1).
I just realised this can never work, because the + and - of IC1G1 are also reversed. That's the problem when looking at someone elses schematic - you assume things are right...
Swap R3 pin2 with R4 pin2. That's still wrong common-mode wise, but it gives you some chance of getting it to work. Honestly, I don't see how the youtube video ever worked with this schematic. You'd really be better off redesigning it... I'm sorry :-(
Hope this helps. I'll leave it at this.