I will PARTIALLY disagree with user2233709. But, only partially.
Also see both the useful link from Edgar and the useful links from those posts.
2233709 is "officially" correct - a switch is USUALLY marked both with ratings AND with certifying bodies who specify the applicable conditions for the test. In some cases manufacturers specify switch ratings without reference to a formal test specification.
Switch current ratings generally relate to the power dissipation in the switch when the contacts are closed so in a given switch a 10A current will typically generate a quarter of the power of a 20A current, as power is equal to current squared x resistance.
Switch Voltage ratings are generally mainly related to the ability to break an arc which occurs as switch is opened.
The difficulty in breaking an arc is much greater for DC than for AC.
Accordingly halving the current makes the load on the switch very much lower whereas doubling the voltage increases the design difficulty in closer to a linear manner at very low voltages.
In all cases, but especially for uncertified switches where the basis for the ratings are not well defined, it is likely,but not certain, that a 20 amp DC rated switch will handle 10 Amps at 20 volts “safely”. However, if it doesn't you have no come back and in situations like an aircraft supply I wouldn't consider doing so.
As a useful but not certain 'rule', switches from reputable manufacturers tend to have certified ratings which are traceable to a standards authority and switches without certification are liable to be from manufacturers who are less reputable. This does not mean that a switch without certification marks is necessarily incorrectly marked but it does suggest extra caution is required. Similarly a switch with many certification marks but which is from a manufacturer of unknown reputation makes it more possible that the certifications are not valid.
The above mealy mouthed / weasel worded pontifications are a long way of saying that “Switches with fake markings from unknown sources are not at all uncommon in the industry - “Caveat Emptor” "
In cases which are life critical I would only use switches which
- had formal test specifications and certifications and
- were made by reputable manufacturers and
- were sourced from known good supply chains.
The importance of the last point is worth noting. If you buy eg a Sprague switch from Digikey it is probably a Sprague switch and probably it's specs can be relied on. If you buy a "Sprague" switch from Seller1234567 on ebay it MAY or may not be a Sprague switch and its specs may or may not be able to be relied on.