# identify infrared receiver

My CD player's infrared receiver for its remote control has failed. (The remote still works with a friend's identical player.) I'd like to buy a replacement receiver and solder it in. How do I identify it?

• Service manuals for similar units (Teac CD-P1250 and CD-P1450, instead of my Teac CD-P650) name their IR receiver GP1U281X. That looks like mine, but lacks the X over the dome.

• The service manual for GF-650 names its receiver FM-6038TM2-5A, which has the X, but lacks the side legs.

• I can't find my unit's service manual.

• Digi-Key lists over 500 through-hole receivers, but only two have a photo showing a metal cage, and those cages have quite a different shape.

• All I really want is to be able to navigate MP3s on a thumb drive! The front panel lacks the necessary buttons that the remote has.

• Should I instead work backwards from the remote's transmitter?

Edit: bottom view.

• Can you see the underside with a mirror? – Solar Mike Apr 14 '19 at 17:41
• Camille - "My CD player's infrared receiver [...] has failed" I don't see evidence of that (did I miss it?). The symptom you describe could be caused by any failure in the signal chain for the IR signal - so perhaps not the IR photodiode component in your question, but could be any other part after that, up to and including the controller/MCU which uses that signal. If you have an oscilloscope, then you can try to find where the IR signal is lost, by following that signal within the receiver (although that's tricky without a service manual). Summary: The fault might not be the IR receiver. – SamGibson Apr 14 '19 at 17:53
• it is most likely the Sharp-Vishay 38kHz 5mm part inserted into the holder. Mouser has it ( assuming yours is the same carrier frequency) – Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75 Apr 14 '19 at 18:07
• You seem more concerned with the metal mechanical shell than with the pin-out electrical sequence. The left-most pin might be signal out, but the centre-pin could be ground, or could be supply voltage. Dead-bug if you get this wrong. A photo of the back-side of the printed circuit board might help us determine the pin-out sequence. – glen_geek Apr 14 '19 at 18:45
• Yes, because the shell was easier to "measure" than electrical specs, to help narrow down choices before actually desoldering it. Which turns out to have been the correctly lazy thing to do! – Camille Goudeseune Apr 14 '19 at 22:13

After looking at the manual for 10 seconds, it is extremely unlikely that the IR receiver is broken, and if it is, there might be something else broken as well.

First, check the remote selector switch behind the unit, verify that it is in SINGLE position, maybe flip it to SYSTEM position and back to make sure it will end up in SINGLE position.

Second, make sure there is nothing connected to the RCA jacks called REMOTE. If there has been some accidental audio connections to REMOTE jacks, there might be something broken inside.

Only then, with an oscilloscope or logic analyser, verify that the IR receiver really is broken. If it receives just fine, then something else is broken.

• The cat must have jostled that back-panel switch to SYSTEM. When I returned it to SINGLE, the IR remote resumed working. (I incorrectly guessed that that switch applied only to the "remote jacks," and had read online of failed IR receivers for many home A/V units.) – Camille Goudeseune Apr 14 '19 at 22:10

First thing you need to check is whether this exact component has failed and not anything else. TSOPs appear to be quote robust and I haven't seen a failed TSOP till now. Assuming that you have done this test and you are sure that everything else is fine:

Side legs appear to be extension of metal cover and should be there just for support and electrically disconnected.

TSOPs usually have 3 legs - GND, VCC and Signal.

Signal pin is HIGH and goes LOW-HIGH when receiving IR signals. First check if you are getting LOW HIGH HIGH on the three pins of your TSOP. Order doesn't matter. You should be getting one LOW and two HIGHs. If not, check your friend's (i hope he lets you do so) and figure out which pins are LOW and which pins are HIGH. Now use IR remote in front of TSOP and check which HIGH starts changing voltage the moment you press a button. - That will be your Signal pin. Once you have the pin config, you can try replacing it with similar pin config TSOP.

Determine the right frequency from part number and vintage. (old) 40kHz was 1st generation. Sharp was the inventor but Sharp sold their IR LED biz to Vishay as demand is low for VCR's etc but is sold by Mouser and others.

Then try to get the same metal body or use the old one. ( Use ESD precautions when handling)

# Debug

Clip on to the C to E leads or presolder jumper leads then connect with a DMM and measure any AC voltage in xxx mV then try the remote to verify the CHip sends out a signal. Expect 5V DC when idle.

Sharp P/N   [kHz] optical carrier
GP1U26X     40
GP1U260X    36
GP1U261X    38.0  (x=1)
GP1U262X    36.7  (x=2)
GP1U263X    32.75  etc.
GP1U267X    56.8

New P/N's
GP1UM27xRKVF

where you choose x = 0,1,2,3,7 uses same pattern of frequencies.
But different holder but can be made to fit.


You should be able to see CE in the metal holder. The common connections look like this

Also shown here; (1,2,3)

• The dimensions match. – Camille Goudeseune Apr 14 '19 at 22:15