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I am having issues with my car in that my electric window circuit appears to be taking .2A when the car is off.

I have access to the wiring diagram for this circuit and there is a relay (T13) before the two fuses fuses (F47, F48) that supply the two motors (N060,N061). In the wiring diagram it clearly shows a coil inside the relay, but the actual relay is quite different.

I was under the impression that a relay always had a coil. From what I can see here is just a direct connection between two pins.

I have attached the wiring diagram. You can see the T13 relay I am talking about within B002.

Wiring diagram:

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Relay picture:

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UPDATE:

I swapped a different relay for this jumper style relay and it did not work.

Unfortunately, this means that culling my parasitic drain will be more difficult than originally thought.

So the situation as it stands right now is that I am getting a .1A current draw from each of the two fuses that directly supply either window motor.

One thing I have noticed is that there is clicking in either door when I put one of the respective fuses back in. This would lead me to believe that there is some sort of relay in the door itself.

On the other hand, is it in the realm of possibility that .2A is not a parasitic drain and this is in fact standard. Should my car battery be able to cope with this? As a reference, the battery is roughly 12.7v when fully charged and if I leave it for 10 hours, it dips to roughly 12.25v. The battery is 60Ah

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Yep, forgot to add that. I removed F2 and the current drain was gone. Also removed the F47/F48 fuses and the current drain is gone too. Its almost .1A per fuse that is being pulled, so I presume its the motors. If you look at the diagram, T13 has a coil, but if you look at my pictures I have put in the message above...there is no coil. Unless I am wrong! \$\endgroup\$ – Barry O'Connor Apr 19 at 14:01
  • \$\begingroup\$ Apologies, Forgot to add the picture of the relay casing! Please refresh the question and you will see. So this relay is the T13 that is in the wiring digram. Except in the diagram it obviously shows a coil, and this thing has no such coil...it just seems to be connecting two pins. Which doesn't sound much like a relay to me! \$\endgroup\$ – Barry O'Connor Apr 19 at 14:38
  • \$\begingroup\$ why do you say it has no coil? have you tried applying power across the coil contacts to see if it clicks? \$\endgroup\$ – Hearth Apr 19 at 14:48
  • \$\begingroup\$ If you look at the second picture of the relay, you will see it clearly has no coil. Also the diagram on the top of the relay casing shows that pin 86 and 85 are disconnected and 85 and 30 are directly connected. From what I can see anyway. \$\endgroup\$ – Barry O'Connor Apr 19 at 15:00
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes, second picture is with the plastic cover removed. I have added other pictures now that give all angles :) This thing seems more like a 50A fuse really. \$\endgroup\$ – Barry O'Connor Apr 19 at 15:13
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It appears that your car has a configurable option which, on some models, will give additional functionality to the circuit in question. For example, the circuits on pin 87 may only be switched on when 85 is pulled low (energising the coil), say, when the auxiliary power is on or remote control is an option. (I have no idea what's actually happening).

On cars without the feature a shorting link is added. Mounting this in a standard relay case makes sense as the link can be fully isolated and it's just a part change for each model of the car. Why the "coil" is shown as 12 V is anyone's guess but it may be part of a template on a laser marking or thermal transfer printing system and it's just not worth making a special case for this module.

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Wow, I was sure that you must be incorrect until I saw your pictures! It's basically just a jumper that fits into a relay socket. I've never heard of that in an automobile, but I guess it's normal. At least, it seems normal since OMRON makes that specific part.

I suspect that @Transistor is correct in his answer. Another option would be that this is a hardware "bug fix".

Either way, pin 85 (the signal that drives the missing coil) may never be actually activated by your car's electronics system. If this is true, it won't help to put in a real relay. It will either never activate (so your motors won't work) or may always stay activated (consuming even more current).

If you do try it, please let us know if it works!

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