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Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?
I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.
It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.
You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.
As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.
With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type
because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.
First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.
Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.
If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.
There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.
Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.
Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.
In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.
And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.
Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.
For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.
For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.
If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.
It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)
I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.
One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.
If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)
You can also try Chip Quick, it's a low temperature solder. It stays hotter longer. I use it a lot specially when I want to save the component I'm removing. It costs a lot but it works really well.
I would just use a hot air solder machine. May not be the conventional way but you will find it 100x easier. Just make sure to keep the hot air moving so you don't leave a burn mark on the pcb. If you don't own a hot air solder machine I would recommend buying one since most components these days are smt based and then you would have the ability to fix both styles of components.
Here's an idea and one that works for electronic companies. I use my electric fan oven and put it on its lowest heat and bake the board so it reaches a good temperature, roughly between 80 and 120 degrees. Keep raising it until the board it too hot to touch. Get everything prepared, flux, braid, sucker, gloves and what ever else you use. If the oven is close to you, the better. Try and find a small gap under the component and run flux and begin desoldering. It may take a few goes and you may need to place it back in the oven as the board will cool down. But make sure when the pins have desoldered that they move in the holes and then do the top. It's all about keeping a constant heat. You'll find your own way and technique, but I find it so invaluable. I'm sorry I can't help you if your oven is too far away. This is an idea that seems to work and I hope it helps you and anybody else. Have fun......
You need to use flux. It reduces the melting point of the solder. People who say "add solder" are merely getting their flux from the hollow wire core. Too much flux is hard to get hot as it boils. Too little doesn't last long.
