You can probably make such a breakout using laser toner transfer techniques - it might take a few tries before you get the hang of getting one intact, but once you figure it out it has a fairly high yield rate. Making the pads longer than recommended may help with hand solderability, especially if you go with a prototype fab that applies solder mask such that the traces themselves aren't solderable extensions of the pads.
The real secret to soldering something like that by hand is to not try to solder the individual pins, but to get just the right amount of solder on a larger iron tip, and flux well, so that surface tension causes the solder to wet the individual contacts and not bridge between the several which the iron is touching at any given time.
You probably will bridge a few, but it's no big deal to fix. Sometimes re-application of the iron with a wiping motion towards the traces will cause the excess to flow there and remove the bridge. If not, very fine copper braid (the smallest you can find) will absorb the solder, though it may take a bit longer than you expect to heat it up to flow temperature. Fluxing the braid helps if it is not pre-treated.
A binocular microscope can be a great help since the focal length tends to be long enough that you can actually work under it, but a cheap 10x loupe is fine for up close post inspection and will help find problems you might have to go back and fix.