I am trying to solder a continuous line with a non-lead soldering wire but I ended like this. Now it's not conducting but there is no gaps between anywhere. How can I fix this?
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3\$\begingroup\$ Not sure which places you really intended to be continuous, but I see lots of places in long lines that have gaps. \$\endgroup\$– JRECommented Oct 20, 2019 at 15:17
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2\$\begingroup\$ Possible duplicate of Lead Free Soldering and bad looking joints The best answer there was "get some proper lead/tin solder!" \$\endgroup\$– Peter JenningsCommented Oct 20, 2019 at 15:23
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2\$\begingroup\$ Lead free solder conducts just fine. You just have to actually connect all the points. It is probably simpler to use a short piece of wire rather than trying to solder all the pads in a row together. \$\endgroup\$– JRECommented Oct 20, 2019 at 15:28
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3\$\begingroup\$ solder a bare wire over the pads you want to connect, rather than trying to drag a solder bead to make the connection. \$\endgroup\$– Peter BennettCommented Oct 20, 2019 at 15:33
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2\$\begingroup\$ Honestly, this looks like you really need to practice some more soldering with this matarial, and especially the large blobs in the top right suggest you've got a problem actually wetting the contacts. There's nothing wrong with the lead-free solder, your handiwork is just not good enough (yet)! \$\endgroup\$– Marcus MüllerCommented Oct 20, 2019 at 16:22
2 Answers
Don't try to make circuits with all solder bridges. Lay a section of bare wire along your desired connection, and solder it down. You don't even have to hit every pad to make it work.
The bare wire (you can use cut-off resistor or diode leads) is the best approach, but there is a technique to making solder blobs connect.
Experiment with cooling the tip on a damp sponge before dragging the solder sideways to join two existing blobs. If you get it too hot it will not join. Lead-free solder may be an advantage in this situation as it behaves more "gummy" than beautiful shiny Sn63Pb37 solder.