To install, you could drag solder and heat would not be a problem if you do it properly in one go. But you would need some practice since if you need to go back in to fix bridging due to an overly large solder bead or just sloppy handling, that's when heat problems occur.
Big tip is better, even bigger than the work piece (2-3x) if you can fit it in. Hoof (flat conical cross section) tips are best, preferably without tinning on the side faces, just the tip. Bevel tips which are the same thing but with tinning on the sides or spoon tips (hollowed out conical cross section) are second best. The biggest difference with the hoof (hollow) and other two tips is the tips without the hollow hold the solder bead doming away from the tip face which makes optimal contact (for no bridging) much easier than the spoon tip, even though the spoon tip holds more solder.
Chisel tip will work in a pinch but makes controllingn the solder bead (and bridging) trickier. You want the solder bead to wash over the pins, but not the tip of the iron itself.
Use plenty liquid flux for both solder and desolder. Don't skimp, especially if you're not good and your dwell times are too long.
These are what JBC calls them. Names may vary a bit.
But removing it is the part of greatest heat damage. I wouldn't do it without a blade tip that can hit all the pins at once.
Safest way for someone who doesn't know what they are doing is to use tiny cutters and just just cut all the pins and extract the component Then you can go back in to remove the soldered pins. Do you have shear cutters capable of that? I can't tell how closely spaced those pins are and have not personally laid eyes on such a cutter except for the XUron 9250ET and now obsolete Plato 170SMD.
These cutters also tend to be VERY expensive. The ones I mentioned are not but are on the larger end of in-between the pins cutters, but other fine-pitch cutters such as those from Erem or more exotic manufacturers cost $100+ and still might be too large.
Perhaps you can test to see if a razor can cut the thinner pins. I think the best candidate is the heavy Exacto knife handle with the 90 degree, square chisel blade that thrust you push straight down. Something like the Xacto #19 chisel blade, though that might be too wide but narrower versions exist like the #17.
it is a lot safer to start from the edge with cutters if you can rather than using a knife. lets you get away with a larger cutter. You could use a knife for an edge pin if it is too tight for cutters and once space is opened up at the edge ugo in with cutters for the rest. In this case, to cut a single pin any chisel edge is too wide. A pointed Exacto blade would be best, preferably a heavy duty one, not the super pointy dainty normal ones.