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I have a seat removed from a Lincoln MKX that I mounted using scrap wood and heavy casters to use as an office chair that has power adjustment as well as Peltier heating/cooling components in the cushion and seatback. It was simple to get the seat positioning/lumbar support functions all working just by using a 30 A, 13.8 V DC power supply and connecting (-) to GD145 and (+) to SBB61 (refer to pin mapping in first image).

I am having more difficulty trying to figure out how to wire the heating/cooling components, since when it is in the vehicle the heating/cooling settings are selected through a climate control module on the dash, which I do not have. I do have the dual climate controlled seat module (DCSM, with hot/ground connections shown in image 2, full wiring diagram in image 3), and was wondering if it would be possible to wire the Peltier devices using a 3-way toggle switch (HEAT ON / OFF / COOL ON) and bypass the temperature sensors, to basically run at full blast heating or cooling?

Related: image 4 is information from diagnostic instructions I found for a different year/model, but related vehicle (Navigator) which discusses how the Peltier devices in that vehicle are controlled. It seems that max power for that seat fan is 8 V. Could I bypass the entire DCSM and wire the Peltier devices directly to my power supply/switch? Would I need to use a 1Ω/30W resistor to drop to 8V at 7.5A for the fan?

wiring harness pin mapping

wiring diagram for DCSM power

Peltier wiring diagram

Peltier device information

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2 Answers 2

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I'm not familiar with the specific seat but in general, there is no problem powering TEC modules without a temperature controller. This motor controller would be a suitable way to deliver variable voltage DC power to the TEC and reversing the direction of the current flow to get either heating or cooling. You can connect a resistor in series with the potentiometer to limit the maximum output voltage that can be set when you turn it to its maximum clockwise position. This will also generate no additional waste heat in your work space.

https://www.amazon.com/Potentiometer-Switch-Control-Driver-Controller/dp/B07KJXG7F5

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Thank you for your quick answer! This was very helpful. Just to clarify, If I use the controller in your link, would this be the correct wiring? 1.) Connect CHS08, CHS07, and CHS06 to the controller (MA). 2.) Connect RRHS07, RHS08, and RHS06 to controller (MB). 3.) Connect DC power supply (+) and (-) to the controller (+) and (-)? Edit: But do I need to connect VHS23 and VHS21 to anything? \$\endgroup\$
    – tinkertailor
    May 4, 2020 at 18:11
  • \$\begingroup\$ The TEC's should be connected to one of these controllers and the fans to a different one since you want to be able to change the direction of current flow to the TEC but not the fans and you may supply a different voltage to the TEC's and the Fan's even when the polarity is the same. So (1) CHS06 and CHS07 to MA on one controller but CHS08 to MA on a second one and same for RHS06 etc. VHS21 and VHS23 naming suggests the wires carry some sort of control signal but not sure exactly what it is. Could be PWM or just an on/off signal. Maybe talk to a local GM mechanic. \$\endgroup\$
    – ssk
    May 4, 2020 at 21:39
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way late to the party here - but didn't see an answer to the wiring on potentiometer - did you ever get it figured out?

I'm doing same/similar swap - 2014 MKS 14 way w/TED into an '02 4Runner.

Best way I've found to to TED where fan gets constant power is to wire on/off/on switch to 5 pin relay (with fans on 5 pin) & 5 pin out to 8 pin DPDT relay that switches the +/_ to TED based upon which side of switch is engaged with center/neutral as off. I just got it working yesterday - I'm no diagrammer but will try to work something out - just haven't figured out the regulator. The TED has a resistor built in - PBKSENS & PBKSENSRT (grn/blu, yel/blu in bottom of your diagram) - I would "Think" the +/- to the TED would just be combined with Sens/SensRT & out of the potentiometer with the power routing into it from relay - did you ever figure out? if I get the diagram of the double relay I'm happy to post/share thx

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