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I was wondering if someone could give me some advice. I'm an architect so I only know so much about electrical engineering.

I have this Elica induction cooktop that I ordered from Italy. This cooktop supports 220V-240V ~ 50Hz/60Hz, 380V-415V ~ 2N ~ 50Hz/60Hz, and 380V-415V ~ 3N ~ 50Hz/60Hz. See below the diagrams of how the instructions show how I should wire it.

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enter image description here

I have a typical 200 A split phase service. Since I don't have a single-phase 240 V I am not sure how I should wire the cooktop. Should I attach one 120 V wire to "#3" on the diagram and then bridge "#3" to "#2", then wire the other 120 V wire on "#1"? Also, should I install the neutral wire on "N"?

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  • \$\begingroup\$ There are two images of diagrams. \$\endgroup\$
    – ArchPinho
    Commented May 17, 2020 at 20:15
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    \$\begingroup\$ The typical center tapped transformer service to a house in the US is 120/240. You have L1, L2, and neutral. The voltage between L1 and L2 is 240V. The voltage from either L1 or L2 to neutral is 120. \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 17, 2020 at 20:16
  • \$\begingroup\$ Wow, no, that is not how you wire those. Glad you're asking before you're trying. \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 18, 2020 at 3:51

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The top half of this drawing is showing you how to wire it, except that where it shows N, you put the other "hot" pole (L2). Note the drawing shows 220-240V between those two wires. That's the important part.

enter image description here

As Peter Bennett discusses, you leave whatever those factory jumpers are right where they are, and land phase L1 (black) on pin3, and phase L2 (red) on pin 4.

Safety ground (green, yellow/green or bare) goes only to safety ground.

I'm assuming as an architect you like to plan ahead. In a deluxe home that imports appliances from Europe, I recommend running AWG 6/3 cable from the panel to the range area. This appliance does not require the white wire, but the customer's next appliance might. You create a lot of problems for the customer when you omit it, and we deal with these problems all the time. 6/3 AWG cable is large enough to support any range/oven the customer might conceivably have in the future.

If you are laying electrical conduit between panel and range area, then put in two black 8 AWG individual wires and a 10 AWG green or bare ground wire. The neutral is easy to add later, and #8 in conduit can carry enough current because of the higher thermal ratings allowed in conduit.

That wire notwithstanding, you must use a circuit breaker that is correct for what the range's instructions say they want for ampacity. If it gives you breakers for each individual phase, then you should add all 3 up.

The breaker type should be whatever the panel says on its labeling. Siemens panel, Siemens breaker. GE panel, GE breaker. There are technical reasons breakers don't interchange.

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Not sure about what the Code says, but you can pretty much wire ground (or center if no ground available) for ground, one of the split phases (hot) to all L1/L2/L3 together and the other hot for N's.

These appliances don't really use 380/400v between-phases voltages (that's why they support single-phase 220-240 operation).

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Look at the top drawing on the page you linked.

Connect terminals 1, 2, and 3 on the cooktop to one "Hot" wire, and terminal 4 to the other "Hot" wire. the neutral wire is not used.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ p.s. I am sure I did recently exactly the opposite: plugged a Japanese AC unit (requiring split phase 2x100v without the center) into an average EU power outlet (230v single phase). Works for now. You are even better by having a combination of exactly the needed voltage. \$\endgroup\$
    – fraxinus
    Commented May 17, 2020 at 20:38

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