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I have a hybrid vehicle that uses a "type 2" charging cable, but the cable is too short. It plugs in to a regular 13Amp UK socket in my garage. The problem is that, in addition to the usual 3 twin and earth cores, the cable also has 2 smaller cores which I believe are used for some charger control / diagnostics.

The plug it was attached to looks like an ordinary UK moulded socket but I can't get into it to see how it is wired.

Can anyone help ? Here are the relevant pics:

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Sounds like a hacksaw would come in handy. \$\endgroup\$
    – Andy aka
    Aug 30, 2020 at 8:36
  • \$\begingroup\$ @Andyaka You mean to take the moulded plug apart ? Yes, could do that. \$\endgroup\$ Aug 30, 2020 at 8:41
  • \$\begingroup\$ You should be able to get a longer cord from the manufacturer. I'm sure the cords have accidents all the time, like being run over, or chewed by rats. \$\endgroup\$ Aug 30, 2020 at 16:48
  • \$\begingroup\$ @AndrewMorton yeah, it's just that they are stupidly expensive (£185 or more) \$\endgroup\$ Aug 30, 2020 at 17:11

3 Answers 3

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It looks like there is a plug overheat detection system, with something like a thermistor between the red and white wires. That will be buried inside the plug somewhere. If you don't connect the wires, then the charging unit will probably refuse to work.

You also have the problem that a standard 13A plug isn't designed to take 2.5mm² cables. While it may be possible to jam such a wire into a plug, the cord grip won't work.

Unfortunately, you chopped that wire off rather short. I suspect the only solution may be to strip the insulation off the stubby little bit of cable, and make a secure join to the end of a new 5-core lead.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks ! Yes, I now realise I should have cut it further back and used some kind of junction box :( \$\endgroup\$ Aug 30, 2020 at 8:40
  • \$\begingroup\$ If I were to join the yellow cable with a normal 3 core heavy duty cord, and simply connect the small red and white wires from the yellow cable together in the junction box, it should still work, right ? But then I will lose the overheat detection ? \$\endgroup\$ Aug 30, 2020 at 9:21
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    \$\begingroup\$ @RobertLong The problem is that we don't know exactly what component they used in the plug. If it's a thermistor, then the charger may refuse to start unless it sees a resistance that is in the correct range. \$\endgroup\$
    – Simon B
    Aug 30, 2020 at 9:27
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    \$\begingroup\$ @SimonB well an ohmmeter and some boiling water will enable an estimate of a thermistor. I'm not sure why he cut the cable , and didn't just make an extension/ adapter cable , (like the cable I have for my welder with a 10A plug and 15A socket.) It looks like the manufacturer has uprated the plug by adding thermal sensing. \$\endgroup\$
    – BobT
    Aug 30, 2020 at 12:29
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    \$\begingroup\$ Thanks Simon & @BobT the reason I cut the cable is that I was intending to use an inline junction box, IP55 rated because I sometimes charge it in the driveway so the cable can be exposed to rain. I was expecting it to be easy, and it's only when I cut it that I noticed the additional wires. \$\endgroup\$ Aug 30, 2020 at 17:36
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I was in the same boat but I cut the plug off very carefully then used a gel filled waterproof conector to extend the cable so I didn't cut the small wires they looks to be something on the end but didn't test to see if what they were. Not sure why they use 2.5mm cables as you can only pull 2.5kw through the 13amp socket so 1.5mm is plenty only thing I can think is you may get 16amp on the contenant so they use 2.5mm

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Soldering Iron / surgical spirit, aka splice / heat shrink & hope for the best ...

I'm in the same boat ... It's not the best but unless you have a contact with someone or business that can provide a replacement fly lead

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