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The cord was brittle and crumbled, so I cut it off. Internal wiring is cloth covered solid copper. 3-speed coil/cap. The 4-pos/3-speed switch rotates freely/well, but not sure if it or the coil is safe to use. Thus, I want to rewire it and use the antique fan. Great conversation piece. Motor = F.A. Smith (Pilot), 115V, 60cycle, 1.52amp (? 0.52amp? hard to read on plate)

  1. What type coil or cap can I use or need? #on coil is ~ "192201 31". No brand name or ID on it. 3 wires labeled Lo, Med, Hi. All 3 wires lead to switch terminals.
  2. Any suggestion on mfd /uf ratings I should look for on new coil or cap.
  3. Can I replace old coil with new style capacitor or must I use an old style coil? This looks to have "leaked" small drops of oil or tar? from between some of the plates in coil on 3 or 4 sides. Safe to still use??
  4. Old coil only had 3 wires (L,M,H) that fed to switch. What type cap do I get and how to connect to switch? 3-wire cap? What size mfd ratings?
  5. Source for 4-pos/3-way switch?? Would something like HQRP 3sp1t switch work? I want to retain the old switch face and knob of original rotary switch.
  6. How to wire new cord? 1 wire to motor and other to Load on new switch. But which wire from outlet is load or neutral? Original plug / wire was not polarized or grounded. Does it matter if new wire from outlet is polarized or not, in this case? I don't want to short it out. Which wire (of the 2) goes to motor and to switch or does it matter if reversed?
  7. How do I tell if motor is still good before I start rewire process? It has an oiling port too.

Lots of questions! Maybe too many at 1 time? I don't want to end up with a meltdown of this beautiful-to-me old fan. :-)

Thanks for any guidance! Kind regards and thanks in advance.

Motor plate1 Motor plate image2 coil image 1 coil image 2 Switch Fan undercarriage

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3 Answers 3

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That looks like a tapped inductor, presumably in series with the motor. There is probably nothing wrong with it. Just replace the insulation on the leads.

A substitute might be possibly made from two separate inductors but it is highly unlikely that a similar replacement exists.

If the wiring is too degraded you could carefully take it apart, while counting the turns and rewind on the same core. Make sure you remember how the laminations were assembled. Inductors and transformers are arranged differently.

What you say is leaking is probably just the shellac that was used to insulate it when manufactured. Most inductors and transformers of this type are submersed in an insulating compound, similar to shellac, and then baked to cure the shellac, ensure all water is removed, and prevent buzzing or vibration. It is common for such transformers and inductors to last a hundred years or more.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks, Kevin. I appreciate the info. \$\endgroup\$
    – OldFanFan
    Commented Oct 10, 2020 at 18:14
  • \$\begingroup\$ Kevin, is there a "modern" replacement for the coil? A. Can I simply cut and just splice in new 16-ga insulated wire? or B. How would you replace the cloth insulation? I have some liquid electrical tape for where the wires enter the coil. I have seen kits online that include cloth-covered wire to look-like old wire - is that worth while? Suggestions on replacing the switch? Source, type, etc. Thanks! \$\endgroup\$
    – OldFanFan
    Commented Oct 10, 2020 at 18:28
  • \$\begingroup\$ @OldFanFan - as I said that inductor is probably unique. What is wrong with it? It looks ok in the picture. You can get sleeving that will slide over the wire to replace the deteriorated insulation. For lenghts up to a few inches you may be able to strip the insulation from a piece of modern wire. You may have to use insulation from a heavier gauge wire to allow it to slide. Even narrow heat-shrink tubing would do - you might not even need to shrink it. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Oct 10, 2020 at 22:29
  • \$\begingroup\$ That inductor may be fine? I will have to replace power cord and plug it in to know. Guess I should try that first, but the wiring and switch look like a fire hazard. I looked closer at the 3 wires from inductor. They are single solid wires with a cloth sleeve that slide up/down the wire. Thanks for good ideas suggestions on the wiring. I have small caliper shrink tubes. \$\endgroup\$
    – OldFanFan
    Commented Oct 10, 2020 at 23:41
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This is a Shaded pole motor, and I cannot see any cap here in image, that is a inductor that is controlling the speed. You will spend too much trying to get the right part, and by the looks of this setup, it will probably fail not to long after. Find somebody in the maintenance field to take this motor with inductor to Johnstone's Supply, Grainger, United Refrigeration (Any HVAC/R supplier) to get prices, replacements are not too pricy and a lot safer than your setup.

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All you need to do is to solder the new power cord.

Here's the schematic showing the autotransformer, the tap selector switch and the motor.

enter image description here

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