I have a broken headphone audio jack from an electronic keyboard. With the jack broken, the speaker audio no longer functions.

The manufacturer no longer supplies the part as it has been discontinued, and they claim they manufacture all of their own parts. They advised googling the part number and looking on eBay. I have done so, without luck.

The audio jack functions in such a way that when the headphone plug is inserted, the audio to the speakers is shut off. I have the schematic of the jack from the service manual:

Headphone Schematic

I have 2 challenges:

  1. Find an audio jack that has the same arrangement with 9 terminals;
  2. If the above exists, the jack to have the same pin-out and spacing to fit into the PCB.

I am unsure of the claim that the manufacturer indeed makes all of their parts rather than source parts from third parties that have already been designed and built, especially for parts of this type. I am assuming that the original manufacture may still produce it.

What seems to make this part unusual is the additional of an extra switch. According to the circuit diagram, two of the switches disconnect the left and right speaker and allow the routing of the audio to the headphones. The third switch from my understanding is used as a signal to the piano's microcontroller to detect the insertion of a plug into the jack for the purposes of a headphone test function.

I am, however, slightly confused with the schematic. Normally when I see headphone jack schematics the switches have an arrow head that is in contact with the pole or has a small gap, thus distinguishing between normally close or normally open, respectively. This symbol is void of those and I am assuming this a normally closed switch. The other symbols for jack plugs within the service manual do indeed show an arrow of the type I am used to seeing; this is the only one void of these.

So my question here is whether others agree with my assumption? It is consistent with the symptoms of no audio through the speakers.

My further questions relate to my challenges, and whether anyone knows of a headphone jack with the same arrangement, and a sign-post to such a part?

I appreciate that my second challenge is somewhat more difficult, however if I can find a solder tab version, this will be most suitable as a few flying leads will be absolutely fine.

I have a pic of the discontinued part obtained from a search using the manufacture part number. This isn't available from the picture source.

Headphone jack part

  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ Is it physically broken? If not have you tried contact cleaner? If not do so: it's not just solvent, there's "magic ingredient" (typically slightly pink/purple) that actively breaks though oxidation. \$\endgroup\$ Oct 23, 2020 at 10:14
  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Finding an original replacement 3.5 mm audio jack is the second most difficult job in electronics, just next to finding a Micro-USB connector - too common, so everyone had their own versions... The struggle is real. \$\endgroup\$ Oct 23, 2020 at 19:08
  • \$\begingroup\$ Alas the part is physically broken but helpful all the same. Yes, the struggle is real but other comments have been made that are will hopefully ease the pain. Good luck in your quest. \$\endgroup\$
    – Mark
    Oct 24, 2020 at 15:02

2 Answers 2


It is consistent with the symptoms of no audio through the speakers.

You could probe with a scope to check if there's signal, or just short the pins that should be shorted by the dead switches and check if the loudspeaker works.

I guess this is what the illustration means:

enter image description here

When you insert the jack, the springs are pushed (red arrow) so pin 4 no longer makes contact with pin 5. I'm not sure whether pin 3 made contact with pin 5 before the jack was inserted, or if you need to insert the jack to make contact, but you get the idea. The same happens to the springs on the left on the picture, but I was too lazy to edit them with paint...

Solutions if you can't find a replacement jack...

You could buy any jack with a switch, use that switch to drive a relay, and have the relay switch the speakers and the other signal to the micro. You don't need to desolder the existing jack to do this unless you don't want to make another hole.

Other solution: if one of the switches still work, you could cut the traces and use that switch to drive the relay.

Or you could just use a manual switch labeled "headphones ON".

  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ You're right about the illustration, see dalveyproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/JY-3567.pdf. \$\endgroup\$
    – ocrdu
    Oct 22, 2020 at 23:28
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    \$\begingroup\$ Yes from seeing the schematic in the pdf, the version in the manual is a poor example, but I was convinced that what you illustrate was how it operated; so you just confirmed my theory (thumbs up) I was also toying with work arounds should the jack not be available and again you have confirmed my thoughts on what to do. I'm thinking the additional "extra" manual switch is probably the easiest option. The headphone test function is not something required everyday. (thumbs up 2) \$\endgroup\$
    – Mark
    Oct 24, 2020 at 15:19

I haven't found a distributor, but a (the?) manufacturer is Dalvey Products Supply Ltd.; it's in their catalog here, and the datasheet is here.

It's an unusual component, and it may well have been a production run specifically for Casio.

Email is cheap though, and you could ask them if and where you can buy one, or if they will send you a sample.

Other than that, see other answer.

  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Brilliant and thanks for the sign post. I'll be on onit next week. \$\endgroup\$
    – Mark
    Oct 24, 2020 at 15:11

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