I am trying to make some GameBoys use rechargeable LiPo batteries. I wanted to utilize a circuit that would allow me to play and charge at the same time and so I settled on the MCP73871.


I purchased a circuit fabricated by diymore from eBay for about $2.80 a piece.


Overview - I have the consoles connected via the LOAD section of the circuit, the battery on the BAT section, and a USB C connector on the PWR section.

I am new to electronics and have a few questions -

The circuit comes with a 4700 microfarad electrolytic capacitor. There is no way to fit this in any GameBoy model. According to the spec sheet it says 4.7 micro farad is plenty so I replaced it with a 4.7 microfarad tantalum capacitor which fit much better.

Is this replacement capacitor ok?

I purchased a 3.7v 4700mah LiPo battery for an original DMG GameBoy. Its quite overkill, but I thought it would be great to have a 60 hour battery life on the console.The board outputs 4.7 volts and this seems to be enough even though the system runs closer to 5 volts and might need more if I decide to use a backlight or IPS display. I have the circuit hooked up and powering the system via LiPo battery. I get the "charge in progress" status LEDs when charging the console, but its only pulling about 20 milliamps tops when charging/playing.

The system plays fine, but seems to not charge at any realistic current rate. I thought it was supposed to be 200 milliamps at minimum and up to 1amp. I even tried draining the battery to around 3.8 volts and it still doesn't charge more than 20 milliamps.

What have I done wrong that is causing such a low charge current?

If I need to bump up the current to somewhere above 5v and below 6v is it ok to add a step-up converter after the MCP73871 ? I think it has a built-in converter and I could replace that, but is having 2 bad?

I have done a similar mod on a GameBoy Color. It runs on 2.5v normally on 2x AA batteries, but seems to be running fine on a similar configuration. I purchased a 3.7v 2500mah battery. However it charges around the same rate 20 milliamp hours.

I am not sure why the circuit would ship with some kind of limitation where it only charges around 20 milliamps? What am I doing wrong? I get confused when I read the spec sheet and it seems by default charging should be at 200mah to 1 amp.

To measure milliamps I use a USB tester in between the supply and the circuit across the LOAD section. When I try to use my current measuring multimeter I get some odd readings, LED errors, and the chip heats up quite a bit. What am I doing wrong to measure current?


I got a 30V 5A power supply and I've been doing some more investigating.

It looks like I can only pull 50mA when I read with my meter. This makes me think its stuck in preconditioning. PROG has a 2KOhm resistor which should allow up to 500mA of charging current, but we don't seem to be getting there for some reason. When I crank the voltage above 5V the current can get to 150mA but that's nowhere near the 500mA or 1000mA fast charging rate.

  • \$\begingroup\$ i was not trying to be snarky ... you are asking what you did wrong with the multimeter, but you did not say what you did \$\endgroup\$
    – jsotola
    Nov 2, 2020 at 6:17
  • \$\begingroup\$ I literally don't know what I am doing. Why would measuring current accross the load portion of the circuit cause the circuit to get upset and also result in circuit errors/shorts? The multimeter is set to milliamps and I am measuring accross the LOAD section on the circuit. \$\endgroup\$ Nov 2, 2020 at 6:18
  • \$\begingroup\$ Anyways that's the least important question in the post. Any ideas why the charge current is so low? \$\endgroup\$ Nov 2, 2020 at 6:45
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ it is not so unimportant ... it is unclear if the current is being measured correctly ... the meter has to be in series with the load \$\endgroup\$
    – jsotola
    Nov 2, 2020 at 7:15
  • \$\begingroup\$ @DelightfulPear If you're measuring across the load with your multimeter set to current measurement (and assuming you've got the probes connected properly for current measurement) then you are creating a short circuit with your meter. Current measurement is done by placing the meter in series. \$\endgroup\$ Nov 6, 2020 at 16:16

2 Answers 2


The Input Voltage for this Board is protected with a Diode to avoid wrong connection. This is useful for solar panels but in the USB case the voltage drop results in a too low Voltage related to the charge balancing circuit.

You should remove the diode and or solder a bridge

  • \$\begingroup\$ Wow thank you for this. So you’re saying usb voltage is too low compared to a solar panel? \$\endgroup\$ May 19, 2021 at 14:19
  • \$\begingroup\$ I also bought these. cdn-shop.adafruit.com/1200x900/4755-01.jpg. Do they have a similar diode? \$\endgroup\$ May 19, 2021 at 15:45
  • \$\begingroup\$ Ok I have done this and its pulling 271ma now. \$\endgroup\$ May 19, 2021 at 17:41
  • \$\begingroup\$ Now we're pulling 409ma! \$\endgroup\$ May 19, 2021 at 18:01
  • \$\begingroup\$ yes, the "1.5A USB/DC/Solar Charger" from Adafruit use a similar Diode in the USB-Path. But because they use another charging IC, there are no problems. \$\endgroup\$
    – Heinrich
    May 22, 2021 at 9:22

You were asking about the 4700μF capacitor that comes with your module. The explanation can be found in the design notes of the Adafruit module: That should be put across the input if you power it from a solar panel. I don’t think it is needed otherwise. The stabilisation caps on the battery and the output should be on the module. I hope. The Adafruit one has 10μF on each.


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