I need to replace the iron for my soldering station for which the manual provides no specs on the 5 pins nor replacement specs. Are soldering stations/irons that use 5 pins standardized? I mean can I just buy any 5 pin iron and expect it to work with my station?

If not, given I can get no more support/specs for my station how can I determine which iron would be compatible.

this post show possible pinouts Why do heaters vary widely in resistance even though they have similar power requirements?

per comment below is pic of pinouts. It is numbered clockwise 1-5 from the register

Mine is no longer sold. This one is still being sold and looks nearly identical and has same make number. Zeny is probably just a seller brand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S4GPM66/

Zeny 853D

enter image description here

  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ Can you show a picture of the connector? \$\endgroup\$
    – Reinderien
    Commented Jan 4, 2021 at 16:11
  • \$\begingroup\$ 5 pins iron solder or 5pins hot air solder station? and many of them using 12V or 24V or different voltage... you may consider to see the type or model of your station \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jan 4, 2021 at 16:30
  • \$\begingroup\$ it's a combo but the iron has its own 5 pin connector. included more links in post. \$\endgroup\$
    – DKebler
    Commented Jan 4, 2021 at 16:37
  • \$\begingroup\$ @DKebler Your hosted images are not available. Please include them in the question, rather than as a link that might disappear in future :) \$\endgroup\$
    – awjlogan
    Commented Jan 4, 2021 at 16:51
  • \$\begingroup\$ sorry, links working now. SE can not reduce images on upload. I'd have to manually reduce them all. \$\endgroup\$
    – DKebler
    Commented Jan 4, 2021 at 17:02

2 Answers 2


Many manufacturers use 5 pin connectors, but they aren't built to any standard that I know of.

For your current problem, you might be able to replace the heating element if the iron has quit working.

This person received a recommendation to use a "HAKKO A1321, Solder Iron Heating Element" in the Zeny 853d - and that recommendation came from Zeny.

  • \$\begingroup\$ the (non-metal) threads on the iron that came with the station have stripped and failed and thus the iron won't stay together. The iron element was heating ok. Need a whole new iron. \$\endgroup\$
    – DKebler
    Commented Jan 4, 2021 at 17:22
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    \$\begingroup\$ Then order one. 8 bucks on fleabay. \$\endgroup\$
    – JRE
    Commented Jan 4, 2021 at 18:48
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    \$\begingroup\$ For others hoping for the buy one solution of @JRE I ordered two and for both the tip temperature sensor was not registering with the solderer so no no way to control the tip temperature. They never heated. :(. I'm giving up on it that zeny. Going to buy a notable brand like weller to avoid this issue in the future. \$\endgroup\$
    – DKebler
    Commented Mar 30, 2021 at 15:57

I had this same problem, though I had already bought a Weller, I wanted a second iron for SMT use, and my Hanmatek RS2 threw a fault the first time I tried the iron. Thought this would be easier than it was.

For a grounded/shielded 5 lead iron, there should be two independent circuits(heater and temp sense) and a tip ground for ESD safety.

  1. To identify the tip ground/shield, clip one ohm meter lead to the tip, then probe each of the five pins. The pin with a dead short to tip is it, and can be excluded from further checking. In my case this was pin 3. We do this one first not because pin3 is especially important but because it makes the next step about 4x faster.
  2. With only four pins remaining we can quickly brute force the four remaining pins, noting each time that resistance isn't open. Stick one meter lead in the lowest number pin and check the others, then advance to the next highest pin, so for me, 1-2, 1-4, 1-5, 2-4, 2-5, 4-5. In my case, pins 1-2 had 50ohms and pins 4-5 had 48.5 ohms, and everything else was measured open. If your soldering iron uses a thermocouple you might see something <10 ohms for one of the circuits.
  3. Because I had two circuits of similar resistance, I suspected one of the circuits was connected to a thermistor instead of a thermocouple. At this point I took the wand apart and found pins 1-2 went to two red leads in the heater module, and pins 4-5 went to two blue leads in the module. This confirms thermistor based, since thermocouple based modules are polar, they have more colored leads.
  4. Placing my hand on the ceramic heater module to warm it, both resistances slowly increased by about 2 ohms. So both circuits have a positive thermal coefficient, and it's similar enough I can't tell them apart. Hooking the wrong one up to power would surely destroy the thermistor, and hooking the wrong one to temperature sensing would likely result in a measurement not too far from the truth.
  5. I've decided I should buy another Weller.

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