I have a team and we're building an RC robot of sorts for a college competition. We require wireless video power source, Motor power source and Arduino power source.

The Arduino will run off of a 9v battery. Each of the cameras are specially made to run off of individual 9v batteries. The motors and servos we wanted on a separate power supply to reduce noise.

Wireless Cameras: http://www.raidentech.com/4chretiremic.html

Motor Battery: http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/lipo-batteries/30c-2200mah-2s-lipo.html

  1. Question: Does anyone know the size of the jack for the individual wireless cameras? The specific name/size of the plug that fits into the camera. I'm not sure if its 9mm.

  2. Question: I'm trying to create a custom power board so we can attach individual components to the board to receive power. Does anyone have any suggestions how to design this? I'm spinning my head in circles trying to figure out what is the best way.

In addition to this question, we also are required by the rules to include a power switch for our electronics. Is there any way I can have one power switch for all the cameras and the Arduino? I'm considering using a second power switch for the motors. As mentioned in the previous paragraph, I'm unsure what is the best design, or honestly how to splice those wires that connect to the camera.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Please measure the diameter of the male plug and also provide a close-up picture so we can identify it. I'm guessing it's a similar type to Nokia's 2.0mm male plugs from chargers. \$\endgroup\$ – shimofuri Jan 28 '13 at 10:13
  • \$\begingroup\$ We are still ordering parts, so we don't have anything. The bureaucracy of universities and order forms is slow, so we are trying to order everything at once. \$\endgroup\$ – DMor Jan 28 '13 at 10:26
  • \$\begingroup\$ I suggest contacting the seller to the tune of (I disclaim the truthfulness of what's to follow): "Hey, I'm interested in buying your product but I need to know if that particular plug will fit my requirements. Could you be kind enough to measure the diameter for me and send me a picture? I'm waiting for the same from a different vendor but I'm a bit impatient to close the transaction now and would prefer buying from you. For one, I find your shipping arrangement more convenient. I'm looking forward to doing business with you, so please send me the details at [your email address here]." \$\endgroup\$ – shimofuri Jan 28 '13 at 10:35
  • \$\begingroup\$ I was a little afraid it would come to this. This is what happens when you purchase from sketchy brands over the internet I presume.. lol. Thanks for your input, though. \$\endgroup\$ – DMor Jan 28 '13 at 10:38

Yes, you can have an individual power switch for each of the supplies while having only one physical switch. What you want is a compound switch with multiple switches thrown by the same physical movement. Switches are categorized as n pole, m throw. You should be able to one with enough 'channels' for your supply configuration. To start searching, you can look for vendors of the most common configuration (double pole double throw, ie, one switch which is actually two switches, each of which has two possible positions) and work your way from there.

The you can also have a switch used as an input to an ATtiny or some such low power controller, or one which energizes a 5V supply which simply activates a number of relays. You should be careful in this case as the power drain by this switching 'circuit' may be higher than you can tolerate.

It is possible, with extreme care, a lot of analysis, and much more testing to achieve the original requirement with a single low side switch (disconnecting grounds, with all grounds shorted together). I should note that this is usually a very bad idea, and should be used only when all other option are exhausted. If you do do it, and independent review of the scheme is preferable by someone who knows what they are doing.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Do you by any chance know the jack size of the wireless cameras? Could you also further explain your last paragraph? I didn't quite follow it. \$\endgroup\$ – DMor Jan 28 '13 at 9:06
  • \$\begingroup\$ I'm not entirely certain what you mean by jack size of the wireless camera. Instead of switching on/off the positive supply for each case, you can put the switch on the negative supply. This can be done because you usually require a star ground point anyway. You could get away with making the star ground at the switch. All the battery grounds would be tied together at the battery side. This requires that the different circuits be truly separate with effective isolation between them. Otherwise, not only with the switch not work, it will likely cause a whole lot of damage when turned off. \$\endgroup\$ – Chintalagiri Shashank Jan 28 '13 at 9:21
  • \$\begingroup\$ I mean in this link: raidentech.com/4chretiremic.html What is the "identifier/name/size" of the 9v battery clip's male side. Thanks for all the help, any other information or ideas would be appreciated. \$\endgroup\$ – DMor Jan 28 '13 at 9:32
  • \$\begingroup\$ Link doesn't seem to be working for me. Why not just take a scale or calliper and measure it? Or take it down to an electronics store? \$\endgroup\$ – Chintalagiri Shashank Jan 28 '13 at 9:36
  • \$\begingroup\$ We actually didn't purchase it yet.. we're still making a parts list and that link and item# is all we have. The link works fine for me \$\endgroup\$ – DMor Jan 28 '13 at 10:25

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