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Between my engineering classes and out-of-class projects, I'm always having to clear my breadboard every time I attempt a project. I would like to invest in some good, quality breadboards to conduct out-of-class projects on. Therefore, I have a couple questions I would like your expertise on.

I've always favored the more general layout, without the terminals that can be added to the breadboard. I don't always need these with little projects I'm doing, like Arduino projects. From what I've experienced, smaller boards that I can manipulate (move around) are always nice to have. Also, boards that are very long give me the option to utilize more components. From your expertise/experience, what type would you recommend for small projects, and would you lean more towards the longer or wider boards or towards the small ones?

I know it's dependent on the type of project; however, any suggestions/guidance is appreciated in understanding the ups and downs of each.

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closed as off-topic by tcrosley, PeterJ, Daniel Grillo, Fizz, Null Nov 6 '15 at 14:11

This question appears to be off-topic. The users who voted to close gave this specific reason:

If this question can be reworded to fit the rules in the help center, please edit the question.

  • \$\begingroup\$ It appears that the question is about shopping recommendation ("Trusted Sites") and about the breadboard features and layout. This forum doesn't appreciate shopping questions. I would edit the post to remove invitation for recommendations on trustful sites. \$\endgroup\$ – Chetan Bhargava Feb 14 '13 at 4:42
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Ignoring the shopping recommendation portion of the question...

This is how breadboards work out best for my particular uses:

  • A few long breadboards with the power strips along the sides (830 tie-points), such as the MB-102:
    MB102
  • A larger number of the tiny 170 tie-point breadboards like the SYB-170, in assorted colors:
    SYB-170
    Each color denotes for me a type of circuit, such as "temporary experiment", "near-permanent building block", "diagnostic tool", or "WHY WON'T THIS WORK?".
  • In addition, a couple of breadboard power supplies, jumper-selected 3.3 Volts and 5 Volts, the type that fit right into the power rails of the MB-102:
    Breadboard power supply
    I usually power these from 9 volt batteries for portability, or from a 12 Volt bench supply.
  • A couple of the little adjustable buck regulator boards with voltage / current display:
    Buck Regulator with Display
  • A few really tiny (0.36" high) 3-wire voltmeter and ammeter LED display units:
    Voltmeter

I usually buy each of these off eBay, solely from vendors who offer free international shipping, and at prices of typically just $1 to a few dollars each. That way I can choose to dedicate any of these breadboarding blocks to a given design for extended periods, while I focus on other circuits.


My approach:

My primary circuit or project goes onto one of the big breadboards, while problematic blocks, or new stuff I am trying, go into separate logical blocks mapped to separate little breadboards.

Voltage and / or current monitoring displays get dedicated to respective breadboards, so anything going awry is quickly noticed.

Sub-circuits I use often, such as a level translator, a voltage rail splitter, a small analog joystick used as two variable voltage dividers for quick tests, and a variable current regulator, are always at hand on one specific color of the little breadboards, until I get around to putting them onto PCBs.

The buck regulators I use have adjustable current limit as well as voltage adjustment, so each can be used for specific parts (the little breadboard logical blocks) where I foresee trouble.

This works especially well for me because at any time, I am engaged in up to a dozen different projects, from pure speculative experimentation, to troubleshooting a client's product.

Overall, cost and flexibility are key parameters, while building block longevity isn't, really: I doubt I'll be wanting to use the same solderless breadboard a year or two after I bought it - surely I'll have retired each with some circuit on them, before that. Reorder costs are of little worry at the prices involved.


While this approach may not precisely match your way of working, I hope this answer provides some thought points to extend upon.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ +1 almost exactly what I would have wanted to say. "Quality" breadboards is sort of a non-issue. I've dealt with some that seem more difficult to insert components and wires into, but generally tie points always work and they're functional. \$\endgroup\$ – JYelton Feb 14 '13 at 5:46
  • \$\begingroup\$ Excellent, I hadn't seen those power supply boards before... eBay here I come. \$\endgroup\$ – Grady Player Feb 14 '13 at 6:08
  • \$\begingroup\$ Despite the rule that shopping questions are off-topic, the recommendation to shop for these on eBay was the most useful part of this answer. Sparkfun, Digikey, Adafruit, Radio Shack, etc. all charge $7+ for a standard breadboard, where I can get one for $3 on eBay. \$\endgroup\$ – Evan Krall Feb 15 '13 at 7:00
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    \$\begingroup\$ Great little power supplies. \$\endgroup\$ – Rocketmagnet Apr 25 '13 at 9:23
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes, @Rocketmagnet, aren't they really cool? \$\endgroup\$ – Anindo Ghosh Apr 25 '13 at 9:42
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I recommend to have enough large and high-quality breadboard in the very beginning -- even though s/he is planning to keep things small. The thing is that you may need to create your own 5-12 converter that is the size of your small breadboard, not funny -- things I had to do when I started and then I had to wait long time for a better breadboard and/or waste time with components and hacks to somehow finish the project even though I did not have any space anymore -- it was irritating to get short circuit when things were very tightly connected. Then again it was fun to get things to smaller space!

enter image description here

I have small breadboards, middle-size breadboards and one higher quality breadboard "Solderless Breadboard Protoboard 4 Bus Test Circuit Board Tie-point 1660 ZY-204". Lower quality breadboards can be pretty irritating with too tight holes, too little lines or poor usability. I rather buy a higher quality breadboard than get short circuits that can damage your components with EOS. It is a bit overkill to require a hobbyist to design his/her own EOS/ESD protection circuit -- although this is actually pretty funny thing and not bad idea to begin with! The cheapest higher quality breadboard I could find from eBay is Tie-point 1660 for about 10EUR.

I recommend to get breadboards of different sizes. I rather work more efficiently than waste time with poor equipments.

Perhaps useful to the readers

  1. EOS versus ESD -thread by TI or more generally Why do 0.02A fuses not protect a person? Why no protection from shocks?
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There is a better solution for solderless board - "5eBoard":

http://www.5eboard.com

5eBoard

5eBoard

Eric

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    \$\begingroup\$ You just posted a picture and link, but you didn't even bother to state why it's worthy of being linked to. Seems like just product placement. \$\endgroup\$ – Bort Jan 12 '17 at 20:51

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