I bought a 2080Super (Palit Super X). It was a cheapy on eBay and after a little bit of poking around, I found a blown fuse on the PCIE power 12v. The card was absolutely dead, core didn't heat up etc etc. I soldered a bit of wire over the fuse and it came to life, the monitor even came on before I turned it off.

I cannot find a replacement fuse anywhere, and I am very new to fixing GPUs, so I'm looking for two things:

1: any material that can help me learn how to understand and identify fuses etc. 2: a link to a fuse that would do the job!!

The fuse is tiny, 3mm L, 1.6mm W , 0.6mm H approx and is labelled 'Q'. There are other fuses labelled 'Z' on the board (excuse messy solder where I bridged it.enter image description here

If there isn't a replacement without buying a donor board, can I run it just bridged?!

  • \$\begingroup\$ There's a reason that fuse died. It's possible that the fuse itself was faulty, but it's not very likely. What's far more likely is that either one or more of the MOSFETs or ceramic capacitors in the voltage regulator circuit is on its way out. Unlike a fuse which is designed to fail relatively gracefully, there's a good chance you'll see smoke & sparks when something else does and leaves a charred hole in the PCB. If you're really interested in finding the cause of the fault, look for hot spots while the card is running and hope that the smoke doesn't escape before you find one... \$\endgroup\$
    – brhans
    Sep 17 at 13:11
  • \$\begingroup\$ Hey brhans, thanks for the response. Thanks for the info, I'll have a look at the card using a thermal cam and see what get's hot. Assuming it is not a faulty fuse and it's something else, any tips on how I can identify the spec of those parts? and I'm assuming that would be donor board time =/ \$\endgroup\$ Sep 17 at 14:03
  • \$\begingroup\$ Sometimes you can find replacement parts like MOSFETs at online distributors like Digikey, but quite often the parts used in these card only seem to be available to large bulk buyers - so that's when you get to donor card time. \$\endgroup\$
    – brhans
    Sep 17 at 14:13
  • \$\begingroup\$ For ceramic caps, since you will usually find that they're part of a power-supply sub-circuit which is duplicated multiple times on the board (these cards always have "multi-phase VRMs") so you could identify the same cap in a different 'phase', desolder it and measure its capacitance, then get one that's the same size with a sensible voltage rating. \$\endgroup\$
    – brhans
    Sep 17 at 14:14
  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks for the help, really appreciate you taking the time out. I bridged the fuse pads again and fire it up under a thermal cam, nothing seemed to get excessively hot other than the core and memory. I did let it run a little longer and it went to the windows loading screen then it went off, the card began to cool at that point. I suspect it had shut itself off for thermal protection at that point as it had no heatsink etc on it. \$\endgroup\$ Sep 17 at 15:16

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