I am building a floor lamp made of vintage elevator directional lenses removed from an old hospital. The lenses are from the 50's. I want to simulate an elevator theme for this project.

I have all that I need to illuminate these lamps. I used a 12V transformer to allow the use of low current 12V LEDs. I am using two 30mm power buttons to power these lamps on and off. A red LED indicates down, which powers the bottom lights. I am using a green LED button to power the UP button. A really cool looking option.

Now, to my real question. I have an old 12 V door bell that I want to use to simulate an elevator door ding. In other words, if you push the up / down LED button to turn on the lamps I thought it would be cool to hear the "ding" noise.

I have room inside my control panel to mount the door bell. I can use the power for the lamps to make the door bell ring once. The only issue is, the solenoid stays out and makes the coil hot.

I was wondering if someone knows what simple device I can use to drop power to the doorbell and keep the lights burning and only power up the 12V doorbell for only a fraction of a second and then release the power to allow the solenoid to disengage. I would like to do this for both up / down power buttons.

I tried / tested a relay that I thought would work but is not for a latching switch, only a momentary. The doorbell is also from the hospital. I believe I can add a third push button the the panel to allow a push the ding using a momentary switch but thought a push of the power button and the sound of the ding would be better.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Please clarify your specific problem or provide additional details to highlight exactly what you need. As it's currently written, it's hard to tell exactly what you're asking. \$\endgroup\$
    – Community Bot
    Oct 30, 2021 at 20:16
  • \$\begingroup\$ Just a capacitor in series with coil. \$\endgroup\$
    – user263983
    Oct 30, 2021 at 20:46
  • \$\begingroup\$ Hello, the power source is 120V to a DC transformer that knocks the voltage down to 12 V. I used low amp 12 volt LEDS including the latching switches. Everything is 12 volts including the doorbell. \$\endgroup\$ Oct 30, 2021 at 21:38
  • \$\begingroup\$ Sorry, new to the site and have no claim to being an engineer but I have a garage and time. The only 120 AC is the power to the 12 v DC converter. I have six LED's and one door bell to connect. If I wire in the doorbell to ding when power is pushed the solenoid stays engaged. Wondering if there is something I can add to the power that feeds the doorbell to end the power after the initial one ding? I may punt on the feature but thought I would try everything I could to make the lamp fun. If anyone has a link or model number of something I could use please share it and thank you!! \$\endgroup\$ Oct 30, 2021 at 21:49

1 Answer 1


It is not explicitly clear which pieces are AC and which are DC. Yes, that includes the LEDs; there are many LED modules with inverse-parallel strings for AC operation.

For example, if the bell and its power source are DC, then putting a capacitor in series with the coil might be all you need for a single ding and zero continuous power.

If both are AC, then you probably need a timer circuit or device to remove power from the bell shortly after it is applied. There are a zillion timer modules on ebay, many with relay outputs that can switch anything.

  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ It might be better to just say I need to use a 12 V DC doorbell with a 12 V DC power supply and us it with a latching switch. Normally, a doorbell is used with a momentary switch... I am using a latching switch (because this is how the lights are powered) Thanks, \$\endgroup\$ Oct 30, 2021 at 21:57

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