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I've developed a smart circuit for the watchdog water alarm (teardown here)and I am ready to have PCBs made up. Before I do so I would like to get everyone's critique and as an amateur I do have a few questions.

My original criteria was to create a smart water alarm that runs on 9VDC to use with home assistant. I also wanted to be able to use a rope sensor instead of the flat metal probes that the stock alarm uses and plug this in via a 3.5mm audio jack. While I was at it I thought it would be nice to have a sensor detect if my HVAC condensate pump fails (through the pump's safety switch) since I will be using the alarm around my furnace to detect leaks from this pump or our whole house humidifier. A remote mute switch, temperature/humidity sensor, and 9V battery dumb-backup were also a must, all run by a Wemos D1 Mini.

Criteria List

  • Wemos D1 Mini
  • Rope sensor through 3.5mm jack
  • Condensate pump sensor - 24VAC HVAC through optocoupler
  • Alarm mute
  • Battery backup
  • Temperature/humidity (BME280)

Smart Watchdog Water Alarm Schematic

Questions

I've tested this circuit for a few weeks now and it seems stable but I do have the following questions.

  1. What type of connector should I use for the 24ACV condensate pump sensor connection? I was thinking of using a 5.5mm x 2.1mm barrel type as I have these laying around. I can only find DC specs and those are up to 12V. Can this be used or what's an alternative suggestion? I have these two parts on hand Option 1 and Option 2. I would prefer a small round connector that could be panel mounted like these two options.
  2. The resistors used for 24VAC I am using are only rated for 1/4 watt, they don't get hot but should I be using 1/2 watt as I've seen suggested on a few sites?
  3. Can a standard 3.5mm audio jack handle 9VDC long term as that's what is running through the rope sensor? Here is what I am using (PJ392 stereo female socket jack 3.5 audio headphone connector).
  4. I did have to use some trial an error with R7(20K) and R2(560K). Usually a standard 10K pulldown resistor has worked well for me with past projects. With this project I was getting some fluctuations with Q3 and Q1 and had to try quite a few values before I came up with what you see. Is this expected with my circuit?
  5. As this is my first time dealing with AC voltage do I need to do anything different with the PCB trace width? Fritzing's standard size is 24 mil. Is this adequate for the 24VAC or should I go wider?
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  • \$\begingroup\$ what are you using for the 9 V power supply? \$\endgroup\$
    – jsotola
    Commented Nov 10, 2021 at 3:17
  • \$\begingroup\$ Any part numbers for the parts you are asking questions about ? \$\endgroup\$
    – citizen
    Commented Nov 10, 2021 at 10:08
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    \$\begingroup\$ Why have you drawn Q1,2 & 4 rotated? It confuses the reader as it obscures that the mosfet is pulling to ground. Is there a specific reason you have 1K resistors in series with the gates? For Q2 it might be limiting the gate voltage too much. R5 seems a bit too high in value. How did you arrive at 100K? What were your calcs for the opto? \$\endgroup\$
    – Kartman
    Commented Nov 10, 2021 at 12:06
  • \$\begingroup\$ I am using a 9VDC 850ma AC wall adapter to power this unit. If for whatever reason the power goes out or it fails the 9V battery kicks in and will at least give me an audio warning but will not power the Wemos D1 Mini, \$\endgroup\$
    – Hartman9
    Commented Nov 10, 2021 at 14:13
  • \$\begingroup\$ I've gone ahead and added links to my original post for the parts I have or am using. \$\endgroup\$
    – Hartman9
    Commented Nov 10, 2021 at 14:14

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