3
\$\begingroup\$

What is this component? Words on it say something like:

  DUIULER
0.1 ? +- 23%
250V 50~ WKG
    TL

Where the "?" is a literal blob of ink that could be anything.

In circuit it lies across the phase and neutral lines, in parallel with an enormous chonking ceramic horizontal rheostat-like resistor-thing. (edit turns out it is a carbon pile resistor in two stacks, with a ceramic housing.)

The outer surface is slightly tacky, but that might be the kapton-like tape around it.

When measured, it returns a value of 15.80 microfarads, but take that with salt.

In situ it looks like this:

enter image description here

Background

I have a 1957 Singer 201K sewing machine that has had a motor kit retrofitted. It has worked well for decades, but in the last few years the pedal started getting hot, and it once started sewing all by itself.

Web searches suggest this is a

  • Noise supression capacitor and is redundant in the modern world without AM radio, can be safely removed.
  • Smoothing capacitor, again redundant given its not the 1950s any more.
  • It might also be a snubber to help protect the resistor-block.

Links:

  1. Example of site saying to simply cut it out.

  2. Video showing how to clean the carbon pile resister.


Results: I have deleted the capacitor, and the sewing machine runs perfectly without it.

I've also cleaned the contents of the ceramic carbon pile resistor, and that was very dusty and dirty. There's over a hundred carbon disks inside it, of which ~5 were broken. Cleaning all the carbon off brass contacts has also helped enormously, and the pedal does not get as hot. I also am running the pedal on a scrap of wood, not on the carpet.

\$\endgroup\$
5
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes - I was halfway through a sewing project when it decided to start sewing straight across my item all by itself. \$\endgroup\$
    – Criggie
    Dec 11, 2021 at 1:02
  • 4
    \$\begingroup\$ The first line is likely actually "DUBILIER", a capacitor manufacturer. They're now Cornell-Dubilier Electronics, and they still make some extremely high-quality film capacitors. \$\endgroup\$
    – Hearth
    Dec 11, 2021 at 1:04
  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Also, the modern world certainly still has AM radio, and the problem of interference is even worse with how much noise things like LED lights put out. And smoothing capacitors are absolutely still needed--some modern stuff might be better at tolerating their absence, but something made in the 50s will definitely still need one now just as much as it needed one then--the laws of physics haven't changed in the past 70 years! \$\endgroup\$
    – Hearth
    Dec 11, 2021 at 1:07
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ Curious about that red-end marking. It may indicate "outside foil"...that end would be attached to the colder end of AC line. Could that top (red) end go to line neutral? \$\endgroup\$
    – glen_geek
    Dec 11, 2021 at 3:08
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ Replace it. I've had a similar era sewing machine start on its own because of a faulty capacitor; but I've also seen one start because of wear or looseness on the adjusting screw on the moving part. Get it right and you'll have a good progressive range of speeds before that nut hits those spring contacts to bypass the resistor for full speed. \$\endgroup\$ Dec 11, 2021 at 13:58

3 Answers 3

5
\$\begingroup\$

It's an old film noise suppressor cap

What you have there is a quite old noise suppressor cap, made from metallized film or film and foil. The correct replacement for a cap like this is not a 400VDC cap of any type though, but an X-rated safety cap with the same value and a safe working voltage rating of at least 250VAC (note that the rating on X and Y caps is in volts AC!!). These will universally be film type capacitors, and are tested so that they do not create a hazardous failure potential when connected across the mains (line-to-neutral).

\$\endgroup\$
3
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ They're specified in AC volts? Huh, I guess I've been vastly overspeccing things for a while, then. I've replaced a number of blown RIFAs in old gear, and always made sure to use replacement X caps that were rated for at least the peak voltage. That would explain why it was so difficult to find ones with appropriate voltage ratings.... \$\endgroup\$
    – Hearth
    Dec 11, 2021 at 4:22
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ @Hearth -- yeah, X and Y rated caps are specified in AC volts -- typical ratings are 250VAC in 120V or 240V circuits, and 275VAC in North American industrial 277VAC stuff \$\endgroup\$ Dec 11, 2021 at 5:32
  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Well, at least that means I over-specified things, rather than underspecifying them! \$\endgroup\$
    – Hearth
    Dec 11, 2021 at 13:42
1
\$\begingroup\$

The markings appear to be:

DUBILIER
0.1 µF ±25%
[2]50V 50~WKG
TL

You should be able to replace it with an axial non-polarized 0.1 µF capacitor rated at 250 V (or higher) with a tolerance of ±25% or better.


Edit: As noted in the comments this is a 250 V part, not a 50 V part. This value is appropriate for a 120 VAC supply but for 240 VAC use you should choose a part rated to at least 400 V.

\$\endgroup\$
3
  • \$\begingroup\$ Given its directly across Phase and Neutral on a 220V AC supply would 250V be the correct rating ? \$\endgroup\$
    – Criggie
    Dec 11, 2021 at 1:38
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ @Criggie absolutely not. You need at least 400 V. \$\endgroup\$
    – Hearth
    Dec 11, 2021 at 1:41
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ Capacitor working voltage is a DC voltage or AC peak, and 240VAC has peak voltages of 240*1.414= 340VDC on every cycle. And the power grid has fluctuation as customer loads switch on and off, which is why a 400V rated capacitor (at minimum) is needed. \$\endgroup\$
    – MarkU
    Dec 11, 2021 at 1:55
1
\$\begingroup\$

As you look to replace the capacitor, you should also look at the splices in your mains wiring per high lighted cropped photo below. And, your contacts appear to be bent (just in front of the cap in your photo.

enter image description here

\$\endgroup\$
2
  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Excellent spotting! Fortunately this is not a splice, the two wires have been unsheathed and parted. The ceramic gets hot (very-hot with slow-speed sewing) and there's some heat-protection tubing over the single-insulated wire. I plan on replacing the wire anyway, provided the cleaning improves function. Have made good progress, will post a full answer soon. \$\endgroup\$
    – Criggie
    Dec 18, 2021 at 19:45
  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Be careful, there were some pretty funky heat-resistant sheathings available in the 1930s to 1960s including rubberized asbestos braid. \$\endgroup\$ Dec 18, 2021 at 20:04

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge that you have read and understand our privacy policy and code of conduct.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.