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If I didn't know any better I would have assumed this was a resistor, but it was on a PCB with the label of "C4" which leads me to believe it is a capacitor. This came from a Zelda SNES cart.

What kind of component is this, and how can I test if it works or not? Where can I find good replacements?

Picture of Component

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  • \$\begingroup\$ When asking questions like this, it's helpful if you can provide some context, like a picture of the PCB with the postition where you found it. If it's just some bulk cap or decoupling cap (which is likely), the value and type isn't critical. \$\endgroup\$
    – Lundin
    May 11 at 8:58

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It's a 10,000 pF (0.01uF) axial-lead ceramic capacitor. It should measure open circuit on a resistance range of a multimeter and close to 10nF on a capacitance range.

Replacing it with a radial leaded 10nF 50V 10% X7R type should be fine.

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    \$\begingroup\$ The grey and brown bands are tolerance and temperature coefficients; +80/-20 and -33E-6, respectively. \$\endgroup\$
    – vir
    May 10 at 20:18
  • \$\begingroup\$ How do you tell which side is positive and which is negative? Also, it says OL even if I short it out. Thanks \$\endgroup\$
    – karafar
    May 10 at 20:35
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    \$\begingroup\$ It's not polarized, so either way is fine. If it says OL on resistance when the test leads are shorted your meter is broken (fuse?). If it says OL on capacitance range check the resistance range first, it may be shorted. \$\endgroup\$
    – Spehro Pefhany
    May 10 at 20:48
  • \$\begingroup\$ @karafar Ceramic caps aren't polarized, as opposed to tantalum or aluminium electrolyte. If it had polarity there would be markings in the form of a solid line (not to be confused with any of the lines in your pic). In case of aluminium electrolyte the line indicates - and in case of tantalum it indicates +. So it's very important to understand which cap chemistry you are dealing with. \$\endgroup\$
    – Lundin
    May 11 at 9:04

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