In my project I use 10m of 24v LED strips. I am looking to get connectors to connect power to wireless module and from the wireless module to the strips.

I see they mark connectors as 12v but connectors are just a piece of metal so I am not sure if that is relevant. enter image description here

So can I have some advice if the connector has to be 24v as well or any connector can be used for 24V connections?

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    \$\begingroup\$ No issues with 24 V. \$\endgroup\$
    – winny
    Feb 2 at 11:43
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    \$\begingroup\$ Check the current limit. Above a few amps and barrel connectors aren't a good choice. \$\endgroup\$ Feb 2 at 13:33
  • \$\begingroup\$ @user1850479 I've seen many laptop chargers use a barrel at 4A. At 96W on 10m, that's 9,6W a meter. Usually 10m LED strips take 2,2-3W per meter, the wasteful ones 6W per meter. For most LED strips, they'll be fine. \$\endgroup\$
    – Mast
    Feb 2 at 20:11
  • \$\begingroup\$ Adding to what others have said, while it's relatively easy to check the diameter of the outer part of one of those connectors checking the diameter of the pin and receptacle is far more difficult. In most cases, particularly if sold as a matched pair, they'll be fine. But if in doubt, either look for some form of blade type connector or stick to screw terminals (with ferrules on the wire), \$\endgroup\$ Feb 2 at 20:31
  • \$\begingroup\$ Is the 10m an all in one continuous series run? I had a project where I used 12v LED strips but was concerned about voltage drop, So I split what would have been an 8m run into 4 parallel 2m runs. 1/4 the current on each run and no worries about voltage drop. \$\endgroup\$
    – Glen Yates
    Feb 2 at 21:19

2 Answers 2


Connectors are rated for voltage because of insulation and current because of resistance. If you do not have a spec it is not 100% sure but 24V does not seem to be a problem. You should be more worried about current.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks for your reply. The LED lights are 12W per meter. And I am going to have 10 meters. So 120W. I am not sure how I can get current and what it should be. Anything that gives me a clue is appreciated. \$\endgroup\$
    – DannyS
    Feb 2 at 18:03
  • \$\begingroup\$ @DannyS I = W/V, so 120W/24V = 5A. \$\endgroup\$ Feb 2 at 20:41
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    \$\begingroup\$ 5A over 10m of strip will probably lose enough voltage along the way to make a noticeable drop in brightness at the other end (the copper conductor in these strips isn't very thick). I'd suggest powering it from the middle instead. \$\endgroup\$
    – bobflux
    Feb 2 at 21:50
  • \$\begingroup\$ Even better, power it from the middle and also both ends. But you can just try it and see how far the power gets before the LEDs are noticeably dim. Then run extra wires in parallel to reduce the resistance. \$\endgroup\$
    – user253751
    Feb 2 at 22:23
  • \$\begingroup\$ @DannyS best way to power the strip by parts. For instance, pieces 2 meters with separate cables from PSU. star configuration. \$\endgroup\$
    – user263983
    Feb 3 at 10:14

There are really few connectors that can't handle 24V DC. Until you reach 50-75V there aren't really issues unless you have significant overvoltages or transients.

For reference a 0.3mm pitch ZIF connector (the smallest thing I have the docs near me) is rated for 50V. A terminal block like the one in the picture is easily rated for 250VAC, and a standard DIN barrel connector (more or less the one in the picture) is rate for 20V typical (the CUI parts, at least) but in practice it shouldn't have issues.

One thing I noticed with these china made adapter is that the soldering inside is… dubious: had one failed and upon inspection (as in cut it open) the wire and the solder were cleanly detached from the barrel (no flux or bad cleaning, most probably)

Anyway both terminal blocks and DC plugs are easily available for soldering, if you want to.


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