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I have 3 DC power supplies that can each supply 320 W. Input to these power supplies comes from AC wall power and is gated by an on / off switch.

I have 2 different loads:

  • DC 35 V, 22 A
  • DC 35 V, 17 A

I only want to power one of the loads at a time.

I was planning to use a SPDT On-On switch between the power supplies and the loads, but from my searches it's hard to find ones rated for DC 35 V, 25 A. I suppose I could use 3 SPDT switches, one for each power supply, but I would like to keep it to one switch.

Is there a smarter, simple way to accomplish powering one of the loads at a time? Or should I try to find a SPDT switch rated for my requirements?

Thank you.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ What is the output voltage of the power supplies? \$\endgroup\$
    – ocirocir
    Commented Jul 14 at 20:03
  • \$\begingroup\$ Also, how you plan to tie together the power supplies to obtain 35*22 = 770W? \$\endgroup\$
    – ocirocir
    Commented Jul 14 at 20:04
  • \$\begingroup\$ @ocirocir the output voltage is 30-56VDC, and I was planning to tie the supplies together in parallel using 10AWG wire. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jul 14 at 20:08
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    \$\begingroup\$ Don't do that, unless they are specifically designed to be put in parallel. Otherwise, the power supply with the slighter higher voltage will source the other one, probably damaging it. If one of the power supply fails, the others will catastrophically source the dead one. \$\endgroup\$
    – ocirocir
    Commented Jul 14 at 20:22
  • \$\begingroup\$ Any that sort of DC amperage your into contactor territory, and you are likely better off using a low power swith with a contactor. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jul 14 at 21:21

3 Answers 3

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The specifications for the switch will list the maximum voltage and current, make or break, and voltage type AC, DC, or AC/DC. You want a switch with a DC rating that meets or exceeds your requirements. One of those requirements is Break Before Make, which means you do not want to bridge two power supplies through a switch. It's an excellent way to destroy them unless you do something like Master/Slave.

They make some power supplies, allowing you to parallel units to increase current capacity. It has several market names, but it is a Master-Slave topology. You designate a Master unit and use its voltage regulator to control the Slaves' voltage regulators. Otherwise, you will need a Break before Make switch.

Another good reason to use Break before Make is that DC does not have a zero cross-over voltage. A DC switch must be able to extinguish any arc likely to be encountered. It has to be fast enough and have a significant throw distance. Conversely, AC has zero cross-over voltage, so any arc is extinguished within half a cycle of 1/120th of a second.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ And because of those requirements plus high power, it's likely a contactor would be a better solution. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jul 14 at 21:24
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The voltage rating is the maximum safe voltage. A switch (or relay) rated to handle 220 volts, such as this 32 ampere switch [shown as an example], can certainly handle just 25 A at 35 V.

However, in your comment, there appear to be an issue: "I have 3 DC power supplies that can each supply 320W of DC power." Many power supplies, and, certainly almost all voltage regulated supplies, cannot safely run in parallel.

Consider that should one supply output 35.0 v, another 35.1 V, and the third 35.2 V, well within normal tolerance,

  • One supply would be attempting to feed current into the other.

  • The load would be entirely on the 35.2 V supply -- the 35.0 and 35.1 V supplies would not even turn on.

    Some method would be needed to equalize current draw, such three series resistors, and perhaps hefty diodes

If they are ~12 V supplies in series, and all have the same current rating, and all are isolated from each other and from ground, it might work -- if the maximum isolation voltage is not exceeded. If current ratings are not identical, again, one supply would be overrated.

As described, expect heat and smoke, rather than usable power.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ The OP said that the two loads are never active at the same time. \$\endgroup\$
    – ocirocir
    Commented Jul 14 at 20:24
  • \$\begingroup\$ @ocirocir, "I have 3 DC power supplies that can each supply 320W of DC power. Input to these power supplies comes from AC wall power and is gated by an on / off switch." No, OP plans to put three supplies in parallel, apparently. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jul 14 at 20:26
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes, I've already pointed out this in the question comments, I'm saying that OP doesn't need 39A but only 22A, because OP plans to connect 1 load at a time. \$\endgroup\$
    – ocirocir
    Commented Jul 14 at 20:28
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    \$\begingroup\$ @ocirocir, thanks -- corrected that misstatement in my answer. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jul 14 at 20:31
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Would 10 volts really matter. you can step down the coil with a resister. Amazon has DG85B-8011-96-1024-M1DR AUTOMOTIVE RELAY, SPDT, 24VDC, 60A

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    \$\begingroup\$ The OP is not talking about relays, and yes 10V matters. \$\endgroup\$
    – ocirocir
    Commented Jul 14 at 20:27
  • \$\begingroup\$ As it’s currently written, your answer is unclear. Please edit to add additional details that will help others understand how this addresses the question asked. You can find more information on how to write good answers in the help center. \$\endgroup\$
    – Community Bot
    Commented Jul 14 at 21:57

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