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LED Stats Your specified LEDs are rated for 3.2V at 20mA. Note, you do not need to push 20mA through these resistors if you don't need them to be that bright. … This is a common mistake with simple LED designs. Reducing the current to 10mA per string will give you nearly the same brightness with double the run time. …

The product page for your LED sticks says this: Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. … directly, and the only voltage level I know of that could do that is 7.2V packs, but that might be too much for your LED sticks. …

Had you placed a resistor greater than 200 ohms in series with the LED it would have been fine: \$\dfrac{9\,\mathrm{V} - V_{LED}}{200\Omega}\$ = LED Current... … In this way, the current through each LED can be controlled, and each LED will continue working if any of the other ones burn out. \$I_{LED} = V_R / R\$. …

Have a look at the schematic on page 8 (document page 5): Do you see the "LED+" and "LED-" labels on the right hand side? Those correspond to the LED '+' and '-' terminals on the driver board. … You are confusing the LED ground (common cathode) with that of the power rail ground. …

This is the current through each LED string consisting of one series resistor and LED. There are 16 LEDs, but using this style of matrix multiplexing, a maximum of 4 should ever be on at one time. … Power (watts) is simply voltage multiplied by current: Total Power: 5V * 38.8mA = 194mW Power Per LED String: 5V * 9.7mA = 48.5mW Total LED Power: 1.8V * 38.8mA = 69.84mW Total Resistor Power: 3.2V …

It looks like your strip is analog control and not digital (which would have little ICs in the strip to control individual LED color), so the specific color ground lines are all in parallel. …

Pole 1 would go to LED 1, pole 2 goes to LED 2, and pole 3 goes to LED 3. As you turn the knob, a different LED will be powered. There are two reasons why a 6 pole switch may be better. … First, there could be an off state between each of three LED off states (1 ON, all OFF, 2 On, all OFF, 3 On, all OFF). …

LED Strip Basics As you might be aware, these LED strips come as parallel groups or 3 series LEDs with one series resistor. Connecting 12V to the main connectors is all it takes to light them up. … LED brightness is determined by forward current; however, the forward voltage also changes with the forward current. A curve relating the two should be available in the LED datasheet. …

I honestly don't think this has anything to do with not using a constant current driver. I only use a constant current driver when I am working with high power LEDs. Common LEDs are very predictable u …

To actually see the LED flash, the pulse frequency needs to be be less than 20Hz, but this would be a fast strobe light. Something like twice per second, or 2Hz, is more appropriate. … The new pulse frequency would be 3.1Hz instead of 31Hz, meaning the LED would flash 3 times per second. Remember, you can increase a capacitor value by putting them in parallel. …

I have to recommend that you DO use a resistor in series with each LED, even if the rated LED voltage is 3.7V. … The LED current will fluctuate as it heats up and the LED forward voltage changes which can damage it or the battery. The resistor is there to make sure that current is limited. …

Otherwise, the voltage will still be returning to 0 with every cycle of the AC line, hence, the circuit would pulse on and off repeatedly (50 or 60Hz, depending on your main power frequency) - seen as the LED …