# Tag Info

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None of the insulation questions matter much, because barrel jacks are not meant to be used with unsafe voltages. 48V is the maximum: they have no regulatory approvals for anything more and are not designed to prevent you from coming in contact with dangerous potentials. The use of such a jack exposes you and other users of your contraption to gratuitous ...

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Speaking from a professional point of view, I would advise you not to use the adapter since you do not know the rated voltage. DC currents are easier to catch fire since the voltage is constant (AC voltage from the other hand would be safer.) Especially at 100V, something could go wrong. As a hobbyist, I would tell you that since it does not get hot in a hot ...

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It's not insulation failure that will be the first problem, it will be arcing between contacts. Most insulation is rated for 100's of volts. But really it's the conductor spacing that can be a problem. Below is at table of IEC regulations. For 100V the spacing needs to be 0.2mm between any conductor. So between the plus and minus terminals of the DC barrel ...

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I picked a somewhat random example of a DC (usually low-voltage) barrel jack. It's datasheet is here: Barrel Jack The relevant specification is here: So in this case, the device is rated to withstand 500 VAC for 1 minute. How long would it last at 100V? It's anyone's guess but generally dielectric breakdown occurs over time and will eventually fail. In ...

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It looks like a MIL spec connector. Big manufacturers are Amphenol, Deutsch and LEMO. There are hundreds upon hundreds of connectors in that spec, so I wish you good luck finding the correct one.

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I have the same issue, I can tell you what I've learned. The 3 wires are Vbus, GND, and CC1. From the picture it looks like the blue wire is CC1. Can't tell what the other wires are, going to need to test them. They should default to 5v, which should allow you to test polarity. USB Power Delivery (PD) is a single-wire protocol which communicates over CC1. ...

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There are a couple of reasons, but I think one of the big ones is the speed of the various signals. Take, for example, USB 2.0 and USB 3.0: Source: https://theydiffer.com/difference-between-usb-2-0-and-3-0-cables/ USB 3 adds those extra five pins at the top, which are used in SuperSpeed mode (total bandwidth of 5 Gbps, which is much faster than USB 2!) To ...

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While looking at various JST connectors, I discovered that the JST NH series wire-to-board connector uses the same female contacts as the SM series, and is the same 2.5mm pitch. So while the NH header will not provide locking or orientation keying with the SM connector, it should fit well. With that said, I've also had no trouble plugging SM connectors onto ...

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I could be wrong but it looks like a 0.1"(2.54mm) spacing, something that is quite standard on almost everything from raspberry pi(s) to arduinos. So a pcb mount connector would look like S7074-ND from digikey.

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Do you mean TPM? Looks like an Amphenol iPN FCI 20021321-00014D4LF is the mating connector 1.27mm pitch 2 x 7 with a key. Pinout is in the Mobo manual, 3 power supply rails available, but standby is not 5V.

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Your question is tagged "pcb design" - how about designing a PCB for it? :) I mean a normal rigid PCB, with edge milled to shape to fit the connector pitch. Something like this: One end will mate with the screw connector, and on the other half you can put whatever connector suits your purpose. For good contact, make sure to have copper on both ...

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If you have the possibility to drill holes into a metal frame of the equipment, then I would suggest you to use Harting HAN, D, DD, EEE, EE... series of connectors. In similar way as Kubahasn'tforgottenMonica suggested you to use wires with crimped ferules at the trminal block, and then to use pins that you crimp on the new connector end. You do insert ...

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run flex ribbons from the PCB to all 4 screw terminal block Why? You're only doing the modification once, so you're probably spending more time thinking about it than will take to assemble it :) The use of a ribbon from the PCB to the screw terminals is not the best idea, since ribbon cables have too small of a wire to reliably connect to screw terminals. ...

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For test setups, I've used pin headers soldered into a bespoke PCB. If you can't find pin headers with the required pitch and length you might resort to using pieces of wire.

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Molex "KK" series, I believe -- link

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It looks like a “Molex” 4-position connector. It seems to be part connector series “2695” (if you look up ‘Molex 2695’, you get plenty of results). If you go to Molex’s page directly for that part, they even provide a nice “Mates with/use with” section detailing the corresponding headers / crimps / pre-crimped leads). Here is a link for what I think you want:...

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I am looking to protect a phoenix contact terminal which is exposed to the elements. This is the main problem. Phoenix connectors are not sealed, and are not designed for outdoor use. They are also spring-contact type, with medium-low contact force. Change to a connector type more suited to outdoor use. Dielectric grease itself is an insulator, which can ...

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I suspect the answer has to do with the 5,000 cycle rating typical on those parts. Gold is soft and there is a lot of wiping action in the 3.5mm connector design. So you might find (too thin) gold flash in cheap jacks that will not retain the gold plating for many operations or thicker silver. Or thick and/or selective gold or gold alloy on better connectors....

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No. The jack is likely to wear rather quickly, and you might well get odd crackling noises and so on. Connections cause enough issues in audio gear anyway, this is asking a bit much. (And these components just aren't designed for this.) Why not just let the cable do the work? Good quality multistrand cable absolutely IS intended for this. That's why it's ...

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I do believe the ansewr is non-technical. Gold is in fact more expensive. Let me explain. As per advancedplatingtech.com the minimum thickness of a gold plate would be 0.1µm. Let us assume 50mm² of metal to be plated that gives us the amount of gold needed for one audio jack: 5e-12m³ = 5e-6cm³. 1kg of gold is 67cm² and cost 60e3US\$. That means the gold on ...

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If you look closely at the datasheets, you'll find that the silver or gold plating applies to the pins, not the internal contacts. From your silver plated jack: The table in the upper right corner has pin numbers. The low left drawing shows the pin locations. The gold plated jack has a similar table and drawing. It's not the contacts that are plated, just ...

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Don't think so. The forces, and the angles of the forces, are designed for medium-to-high contact pressure at a point, not what you want in a rotating contact. Also, the plating probably will not hold up. Contact lubricant, such as what is used in slip-ring connections and potentiometer wipers, will help. But before I'd commit to it, I'd rig up a ...

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So I am interpreting this as options that don't involve crimping. I take it you don't insist on soldering. Insulation displacement connectors (IDC) are an option for small gauge signal connections. As long as you use the appropriate wire they work pretty well. For example the CR series from JST interconnects with PH series connectors which are very common. ...

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I have a couple of designs in production were we've had issues with poor crimps. While generally speaking I agree with others who have said "get better at crimping", here's what we did as a work around which works fine: Buy pre-made cables and cut them, then solder and heat shrink. It's time consuming, and more expensive, but it provides excellent ...

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PCB Pin headers? I have used 2.54 pitch male and female pin headers during prototyping for years. If I feel like some vibration resistance / "reliability" I use a bit of tape or crimp tube. There are thousands of options, both in size and design. I use the most simple 1x32 strips and cut off as much as I need. These fairly reliable, but if I need ...

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I resisted crimp technology for many years, preferring solder because it was more "professional", until I saw good evidence of the superior reliability of crimped connections. Nevertheless, if you have a strong preference for soldering, I suggest you search using the keyword "solder seal". You'll find a huge number of connectors ...

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While there are many possible sources of noise in your setup, you've found it's associated with "twisting of the cable" and have suggested it's related to the connector pin rotating. That's possible, but you should also consider "triboelectric noise" as well. This is a well-known source of noise in medical instrumentation cables carrying ...

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Many Non invasive current sensors come without a minijack The minijack is manufacturer specific. Use an amplifier made by the same manufacturer to convert the readout to something sensible (for example sparkfun sells this sensor, with this breakout board). In the case of current transformers the output is a voltage that can be amplified and monitored with an ...

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I'm guessing you mean something like this: The minijack is for connecting the sensor to something that is going to read the data, like a microcontroller or similar.

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16 possibilities for the first wire, when that one has been connected there are 15 possibilities left for the second wire, and so on to the last wire, which can only be connected in one way once all other wires have been connected, so: 16 x 15 x ... x 2 x 1 = 16! possibilities. 16! is 20922789888000, or about 20.9 x 1012.

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The answer involves the vast mathematical field of combinatorics. If we consider the permutation formula, $_nP_k$ or $P(n,k)$, which is to say "k-permutations of n", n is the "total number of elements" and k is the "sample size." $$_nP_k = \frac{n!}{(n-k)!}$$ This formula is specifically for permutations, where elements ...

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I found the following parts (with the key in the middle and without sides) for soldering on the target boards: Samtec FTSH-107-01-L-DV-K: is the SMD connector with 14 pins (STDC14), however: Samtec FTSH-107-01-L-DV-K-TR is what I found first Samtec FTSH-107-01-L-DV-K-A is the model as described in STLink V3Set documentation Samtec FTSH-105-01-L-DV-K-TR ...

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I don't think there's an ic solution to such an easy problem: put and/supply on two "mirrored" contacts, have a simple diode bridge provide the right polarity regardless of orientation. With that power, use microcontroller or the SoC that your device has anyway to detect the polarity. Most microcontrollers have rather flexible pin assignments, so ...

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This is not for professional use cases, but I use pliers in the DIY situation. Either tiny little ones, or the really big 10" ones. I form the metal onto the wire just sufficiently enough to retain it. I then flux and solder it on with an appropriately sized iron. Whilst perhaps not approved for aeronautical/military use, and slow, the advantage is that ...

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If the pins are 0.025" square and on 0.100" centers, then AMP MTE (crimp) or MTA (IDC - insulation displacement) series. Molex and just about everybody has an itermateable part. Here is the AMP IDC part for #22 wire: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/3-641653-2/765829

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With added picture, it is SM2 plug connector. From: This link From: this link From: this link but the SM2 plug pin is a bit to the top, it could fit. If it doesn't fit The NordicTrack using a non-standard SM2 plug. just change the plug entrirely.

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The material that most ICs are encapsulated in (the ubiquitous hard black plastic) is epoxy, which is a thermosetting polymer. This is opposed to most materials referred to as plastics, which are thermoplastic polymers. Thermoplastic polymers are made up of many separate polymer chains of various lengths (molecular weight) that don't actually have any bonds ...

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since you don't care about every connector that might have existed, but only those you can actually buy, the kind-of-logical-ain't-it answer to your first question (list?) is: Go to one of the large electronic distributor's websites, click through to the connector listings, and select filters that describe your connector. Regarding your second question (ID ...

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I'm rather partial to Anderson's Powerpole connectors, which are highly durable connectors rated for thousands of mating cycles, are modular so you can assemble your own four-pole connector out of four single-pole ones, and are symmetric so there's no plug and socket, just a single connector that mates with another identical one. The contacts are crimped ...

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Neutrik Speak-On connector. Extremely reliable. These are available in 4-pin and 8-pin. Pull back on the lock latch and rotate about 1/8 turn counter-clockwise, then pull out. These are used in Professional Audio and have proven to be extremely reliable.

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Mini-Fit Jr. might work. Let's see: Suitable for 18/4 wire Check. 18 AWG (and even 16 AWG) stranded wire is pretty common for PC power wiring. Rated for at least 1000 plug/unplug cycles Well... standard pins are rated for... 30 cycles 😱. However, pins rated for 1,500 cycles are available. Rated for at least 12 V / ~2 W (~200 mA) Yup; rated for quite ...

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The connector type that you may want to consider has been around for a long time, is rugged, is low cost and is available in a plethora of styles. The styles include chassis/panel mount for one end of your DC power connection. The other end that would cable mounted can be obtained in a variety of styles with connector back shells or custom over molded ends. ...

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