Timeline for Insufficient current to drive automotive relay?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
4 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jul 11, 2015 at 3:18 | comment | added | Michael Karas | If one does use a battery splitter (a.k.a. battery isolator) the better way to connect them is to have the voltage sense at the running/starting battery + terminal instead of at the alternator output. This can be a challenge to achieve with some alternators that have built in voltage regulators without a separate sense lead back to the battery. This at least allows both batteries to be charged from more similar voltages. | |
| Jul 11, 2015 at 1:58 | comment | added | Russell McMahon♦ | @aaaaargZombies I deleted the part in my answer which related to Michael's answer as I put what I was trying to say badly. Main point was that the voltage of any battery being charged MUST be directly monitored by the vehicle regulator IF the voltage is properly controlled for float and boost operation. Running a battery behind a diode with boost voltage based on the before diode voltage leads to early battery death. I saw batteries charged via a diode with main battery direct from alternator in a taxi fleet. The auxiliary batteries all died young due to too low voltages. | |
| Jul 10, 2015 at 19:30 | comment | added | aaaaargZombies | This sounds lovely but the alternator is a nightmare to get at as I'd need something to lift the van up with and the original battery lives under the driver seat which means I shouldn't need to run any wires externally this way. | |
| Jul 10, 2015 at 16:04 | history | answered | Michael Karas | CC BY-SA 3.0 |