Timeline for Arduino, two buttons powering and digital inputs in the same time
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
14 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan 22, 2016 at 8:45 | comment | added | Ruslan | Wow, now I finally have all the details of this puzzle :) Thank you so much! For your great explanation, for the fixed circuit and just for explaining such basic things to me! | |
| Jan 22, 2016 at 8:40 | comment | added | Ariser | Yes, that is the right way to measure it. | |
| Jan 22, 2016 at 8:20 | comment | added | Ruslan | Thanks! How can I check that? Connecting "-" of multimeter to the Arduino GND and "+" to the one of the input pins and measuring current? If so, then in the "safe" situation I should always get "0" or "+..." volts is this correct? | |
| Jan 22, 2016 at 8:13 | comment | added | Ariser | No, your original circuit is dangerous for the controller, as it leads to negative voltages at the input pins. You have to make sure, all voltages on arduino pins have only voltages equal or greater than 0 respective to the GND of the arduino. | |
| Jan 22, 2016 at 8:04 | comment | added | Ruslan | In other words my original circuit (which is posted on the top of the page) will works with no problem and I don't need additional diodes and resistors on input pins right? | |
| Jan 21, 2016 at 19:48 | comment | added | Ariser | hmmm. I'm not sure if this has no side effects. There's a voltage regulator in between and the connected capacitors need some time for charging. I'm not sure if that in conjunction with the input pins on different potentials may lead to forbidden voltage levels on the pins. At least make sure that your switches control the complete ground, i.e. no other circuit components should have ground connection before the switch is closed. Otherwise controller pins may again have contact to voltages negative to GND of the controller. | |
| Jan 21, 2016 at 10:13 | comment | added | Ruslan | Btw, does it add any danger for this circuit if Arduino is powered using 12v battery through it's RAW pin? | |
| Jan 21, 2016 at 8:58 | comment | added | Ariser | Yes. That was my intention. BAT 54 may be a little bit weak drpending on the number of peripherals but if you only have an arduino tgey may do well | |
| Jan 21, 2016 at 5:42 | comment | added | Ruslan | Thanks! You use schottky diodes because of their low voltage drop right? | |
| Jan 20, 2016 at 22:06 | history | edited | Ariser | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added schematic
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| Jan 20, 2016 at 21:53 | comment | added | Ariser | The internal pullup of Atmel MCUs is very weak (20-50 kOhms), depending on model. The pullup may not be able to drive the input above GND, so I recommend adding a lower pullup resistor like 10k. But you have to add diodes to your inputs, to bring their respective levels up. | |
| Jan 20, 2016 at 12:04 | comment | added | Ruslan | About duration and debouncing: this is only the part of it, in the final device I'm planning to add "something" (ssr or optocoupler), which is being connected to one of output pins will allow me to bypass all this buttons circuit, in order to connect ground directly to Arduino. In this case arduino will be responsible for powering off itself (will happen as soon as it's done), same goes for debouncing. | |
| Jan 20, 2016 at 12:04 | comment | added | Ruslan | Not sure if I understand you correctly, but as I've mentioned in the description, I set pinMode to INPUT_PULLUP so I use internal pullup resistors proveded by arduino... or I need to put additional ones? If so then where? | |
| Jan 20, 2016 at 11:51 | history | answered | Ariser | CC BY-SA 3.0 |